Starting this week are a string of cultural events in the evening in Parque San Martin which often turn out to be some of the best kept secrets of the Harvest Festival agenda:

Cinema in the Park – Bring your Spanish dictionary for this one, because next to the rose garden there will be showings on a big screen of different Mendocinean and Argentine films for a few evenings at the end of January and beginning of February. The closest you can get to a drive-in here and no doubt there will be plenty of young Mendocinos trying John Travolta’s old ‘yawning into a hug’ trick. Chuck a pillow and some mate (Argentine herbal tea) in your bag and watch the films starting at 9.30pm on 24, 25 and 31 of January as well as the 1, 2, 7, 8 and 9 of February.

Dancing in the Park – It might sound like a misspelt Bruce Springsteen song, but there is no mistake in this Vendimia event. Three nights of different traditional dances and music including folk, Arabic belly dancing, flamenco and, of course, tango. For me there is no night quite so quintessentially Argentine then to sit with lots of families crowded around mini picnic tables sharing picadas and malbec, watching smoky-eyed dancers seducing each other through tango, or latin heartthrobs rapping their feet against the boards in fast moving flamenco to the cries of ‘ole’ from the audience. It kicks off at 9.30pm on 26, 27 and 28^th Jan.

Jazz by the Lake – In front of Parque San Martin’s picturesque floating island in the middle of the lake, a make shift stage frames some of Mendoza’s best jazz musicians for three nights of open air concerts. Not just jazz, but always a fusion with tango, bossa nova and big band – each night a handful of different performers and groups play to the crowd for a couple hours of gorgeous live music and star gazing. Starting at 8pm on 10, 11 and 12^th Feb.

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza who still very much believes in old fashioned romance.

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Part 1- The Technical Tasting Note 

Ok, so I am not good at the boring blah blah blah that you usually get from wine professionals. I get that glazed over look as they talk about adequate tannins and structure, prominent anthocyanins, etc. Don’t get me wrong, I can talk the talk and also throw it in the mix, its just that I think there is a better and more fun way to talk about wine, one that everyone can grasp.

So, we will divide this “mini” course into small chunks with some take aways so that soon you too, can be a master tasting note writer and awe your friends with your wine tasting abilities and hopefully, creativity. So to kick things off we are going to start with the tasting note skeleton which is made up of 5 S’s.

So onward- the 5 S’s- this should be fun!

See- This is what you see in the glass. Look at the color, the opacity, the different hues around the edge and then start to think back to when you started to learn about the rainbow colors. Now try to identify those colors. I know you have all looked at clothing catalogs, so feel free to steal some names from clothing items like cranberry, straw, maybe even a hint of periwinkle etc.

Try to do it with adequate light and hopefully have a whitish surface as a background. Try not to look at the glass with a fuscia shirt in the background for example, it tends to skew the results. Also, you don’t want to look like a blind mouse running about searching for the light, so if you are in a compromised situation, its ok, just move on to the next step.

Swirl- Let’s get some movement going in that glass- I want to see those legs do some dancing! But try and get a gauge of your glass shape and size before you do so, otherwise you may be wearing half of your glass of wine. The best thing to do for beginners is to start slow with your glass of wine on a smooth table-like surface and, keeping the base of the glass on table, start to make small circular gestures. There you go, keep going, until you can take off the training wheels and go stem swirling only!

Sniff- Now this is probably the hardest step to do without looking like a complete idiot or a confirmed wine snob. But yes, you can do it! Once you have the swirling part down just start to lift the glass lightly to your nose and take a delicate whiff. See what you think, what your first takeaway is. Its okay if you don’t smell anything at first, it takes practice and what fun it is to practice with wine! The best thing to get started is to practice your swirl and then periodically sniff. See if you can smell the same essences from the first time to the next. Try to associate the different smells with foods you eat or experiences you have. There are no rules and no right answers, because this is a sensory exercise and everyones senses are different.

Try this out every time you have a glass of wine and you will increase your olfactory vocabulary quite quickly. Take time in the market to smell pinapples, berries, fruits and spices. Not only does it give you a zen-like moment to your day but it makes you start to create the smell memories that will help you with the PART II of the Tasting note course!

Sip- So this is really my favorite part of the exercise. If you are with a group, try to delicately taste the wine and see what your overall experience is. Take time to notice how it hits your tongue, is it spicy, tickly, acidic, soft, chocolatey? How does it slide through your mouth- is it elegant, grippy, tart?  If you are alone with your glass of wine, you can go full monty and close your eyes, sigh deeply and truly indulge in the experience.

Savor- So now you have experienced the wine from your sight, smell and taste, now it is time to see what remains. How was the wine structured? Did it have a lot of acid, tannin,  etc.? Basically … a lot of the boring things that you hear about but never really take into account. You don’t have to have the vocabulary, you should just know what it tastes like for you. Once you swallow what flavors linger, or does it even linger? What is your overall impression of the wine? Would you buy it again? Would you give it as a gift to a friend? 

So the take aways from this basic anatomy of a wine tasting note:

1. Relax and put your sensory hat on.

2. Don’t worry that you don’t know that much about wine- just know what you like and don’t like.

3. Follow the 5 S’s and you will look like a wine pro in no time!

And stay tuned for Part II…

Emily is The Director of Marketing for The Vines of Mendoza and likes to dabble in wines tastings and sensory evaluation.

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Tell us a bit about Cruzat Larrain and what is special about it…

“Our philosophy to keep the sparkling wine tradition and using the Champenoise method to make the wines. The owners have a winery in Chile and produce high quality wines from there and decided to start making wines in Argentina – as they preferred the potential of the region. And they called Pedro Rossell, the father of sparkling wine here in Argentina, to make the wines – he understands the different terroirs really well that give us the opportunity for a state of art sparkling wine.”

We’ve all practiced tasting still wines but what’s the secret to tasting a sparkling wine?

“The difference is that you definitely don’t swirl! If you swirl you lose all the bubbles. Seeing the pearlage and crown is important to show that the wine is at the right temperature.”

Tonight there have been some great pairings with sparkling wines. What is your favourite Cruzat Larrain wine and what do you like to pair it with?

“I love the Rosado and I think one of the best pairings is with tenderloin steak because meat is the backbone of the of Argentine character and sparkling wine is the highlight of the wine industry -the King or Queen of wine. It’s a very good way to join the two cultures.”

What is your favorite aspect of drinking a bottle of fizz?

“The experience! I think Napoleon said “in victory you deserve champagne, when you are defeated you need champagne.” I share the same philosophy. With this style of sparkling wine it is enjoyable even by yourself with a good book and looking at the mountains.”

Each of your different wines are given an animal character on your website. If you were in the animal kingdom what would you be and why?

“I would be a bull because I like to know where I am standing before I move. Once I make my decision I move forward without doubt and always in fifth gear! But maybe I’d be a genetic cross with a pig because they get to enjoy all the material pleasures!”

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist who lives in Mendoza and cannot tear herself away from the mountains and Malbec.

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We are often asked what some of our favorite wines or wineries are here in Mendoza and one of the wineries that always tops my list is Pulenta Estate. They offer wines across the board that please everyone from wine connoisseur to the novice that was just introduced to Malbec. They  consistently provide amazing value and every vintage is true to their winemaking philosophy.

We cannot wait to share the Pulenta Estate Gran Pinor Noir with you — it will hopefully be in the market soon. Pulenta numbers their great wines with simple roman numerals and you should now watch out for number XV!

This wine comes from a single vineyard in the Uco Valley, cuartel 23 in their Finca Los Alamos and was made to express the terroir. The grapes were handled very carefully to capture the delicate flavors and aromas that are emblematic to the very finicky Pinot Noir grape. They were treated with a two day cold maceration and then fermented in small open top stainless steel tanks with a manual punchdown. They were then transferred to French oak barrels where the wine aged for 9 months.

To make a splash for the release of this wine, we were treated to a lovely inauguration party at the winery, where the owners and winemakers were able to show and explain the new Gran Pinot Noir for their portfolio. They also showed the new vintage for their Malbec and capped off the evening with a succulent asado. The Pinot went perfectly with some of the best pork loin I have ever had!

To say the least, this is another great achievement for this very special winery. If you are coming to Mendoza, it is one of our top favorites to visit!

2010 Tasting Notes:

Delicate and aromatic with notes of strawberries lightly dusted with chocolate and caramel. The mouth is expressive with deep stone fruit, hints of earth and toast with lively acidity and structure. The finish is simply lovely with fruit lasting in your mouth like a good lollypop- you just want to keep drinking! This is a young wine and is sure to mature and develop even more layers and intricate flavors.

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Salta and Cafayate are not only home to Argentina’s best fruity white wine, Torrontes, but also to the legendary Peña. One of Argentina’s best nights out, the Peña is part of your travels that can’t be missed. Some say the word Peña comes from wanting to drown your sorrows (or pains/peñas) with wine and music, while others say it comes from a native word to unite with brothers. Either way it works as this night of lively folklore music and plenty of local brew is sure to both numb the senses and unify people!

My first experience of a Peña was at the bohemian ‘La Casona del Molino’, an old mill building 10 minutes out of Salta city center which has been converted into a rather shabby looking bar. Five rooms in the round with a rustic bar propped up in the middle connecting patio, this is a real diamond in the rough – not for its mismatched, wobbly furniture, or rock bottom drink prices, but for the people that fill this place every night.

Gauchos in billowing pants with their large knives swaggering at the side pour into La Casona with an assortment of instruments slung over their shoulders. Picking any room, locals grab a stool and join in for a folk music jam session, improvising with others on the spot. Walking between the rooms you could end up at either side of the Argentine folkloric spectrum, from heart rendering wavering vocals being sung at the top of emotion filled lungs with solitary Spanish guitar, to foot tapping and thigh slapping alongside an energetic 10 piece band of all sorts.

As each rooms gets more and more packed, the music gets louder and louder with musicians competing to reign the sound waves over their neighboring room. This is a boisterous night that starts late and keeps going even later. So pick a room, take a seat, order a Fantvin like everyone else (orange Fanta mixed with red wine…) and enjoy the show. It’s sure to be one you will always remember!

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San Martin Park-La Isla de Inmigrantes (Immigrant Island)

If you’re staying in Mendoza city center with an extra afternoon on your hands, it can be difficult to know where to start in exploring the city. While many of Mendoza’s main attractions, such as the lovely wineries, are located outside the city and require a rental car or a hired driver, here are a few sights you can see on foot.

San Martin Park:  El Parque de General San Martin itself is massive, but there’s a nice lake at the entrance of the park that is ideal for lounging with a bottle of wine, cheese and olives. You can also take a nice stroll around the lake with an ice cream from the Ferrucio Soppelsa truck parked nearby or sit on one of the benches in the rose garden and people-watch. The park is packed on Sunday afternoons as families and friends get together weekly to catch up with each other. The park begins at Avenida Boulogne Sur Mer.

Plaza de Independencia: After a massive earthquake struck decades ago, city planners constructed four plazas surrounding one main plaza, Plaza de Independencia, to give Mendocinos a refuge. Plaza de Independencia has a lovely main fountain as well as an assortment of vendors selling their craftwork during the evenings—the most popular night to go are Sundays. While Plaza de Independencia, as well as the four surrounding plazas now have the national guard  patrolling the area, it’s always best to avoid the plazas late at night.

Mercado Central: Located at Las Heras and Patricias Mendocinas, the Central Market is the oldest and biggest market in Mendoza, offering fresh fruits, vegetables and of course, meat. Word of caution to those with light stomachs. It’s not uncommon to see an entire pig carcass at the butchers. The Central Market can be a great place to stock up for a picnic in the park. There’s also a food court within the market for those who don’t do much cooking themselves.

Aristides: THE street to grab a beer, sit outside and enjoy life. The street is packed Wednesday through Sunday with people going out between the hours of 10 p.m. and 6 a.m., but ordering a nice meat and cheese plate (called a picada) is a normal Saturday afternoon affair as well if you’re not accustomed to the late Argentinian schedule.

Cerro de La Gloria: Glory Hill is located within San Martin park, but its quite the hike from the entrance. If you enter the main gates of the park at Boulogne Sur Mer and Emilio Civit and keep walking a few miles, you will reach Mendoza’s zoo at the foot of Cerro de La Gloria. If you ascend the same hill, you’ll see Mendoza’s dedication to General San Martin, the “liberator” of Argentina, and his troops. If you’re not up for the walk, there are orange tour buses at the intersection of Sarmiento and 25 de Mayo in the center that give you a tour around the city, including to Cerro de La Gloria. To really immerse yourself in the culture, take the city bus 112 Zoologico on Line 3 at the same intersection—make sure you have $1.40 in change as the buses don’t accept bills.

In addition to these main sites, walking down the Sarmiento pedestrian path doing some shopping or grabbing souvenirs on Las Heras can be a great way to spend a relaxing, low-key afternoon. Look for our next post on close by daytrips from Mendoza—to the wineries, the mountains and beyond!

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I am often asked which Malbecs are my favorites. So, in the spirit of Thanksgiving, I wanted to share five Malbecs with you that I appreciate the most. For our friends outside of Argentina, these are great cold weather wines to pair with today’s turkey, comfort food and, of course, steak! Check them out and let us know what you think.

Pulenta Estate Malbec 2008 – $29 Every one of their wines is a great value for the price – they simply don’t make a bad wine.

Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec 2007 – $30 Walter Bressia is a true craftsman and gentleman — and it comes across in this wine

Laborum Malbec 2006 – $49 From up North in Salta – intense and rustic. Boom!

Lindaflor Malbec 2006 - $51

Our neighbors from across the street at Clos De Los Siete — the perfect balance of elegance and power by Michel Rolland.

And my favorite Malbec of all time:

Achaval-Ferrer Finca Bellavista $100

Ah, my friend Santiago — the magic that you pull from these old vines and into the bottle inspires and delights!

Happy Thanksgiving!

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It’s springtime here in Mendoza, which means our vines at our Private Vineyard Estates in the Uco Valley are coming out of hibernation and enjoying the mountain sunshine! We are also busy in the vineyard planting new vineyards as well as maintaining our owner’s established vineyards.

After pruning all of the vineyards during winter, the vines are now properly positioned to concentrate their energies on the spurs that remain. Overall throughout the year, we want to make sure that we optimize sunshine and right now, shoot thinning is important to create proper air- circulation amongst the vines as well as remove any shoots that will not bear fruit. These “just beginning to flower” vines can then concentrate all of their efforts on fewer shoots which will then achieve greater sugar and flavor concentration for the future grapes.

It is an exciting time of year for us at The Vines of Mendoza, as the vineyards start to develop their full canopy and transform the dramatic landscape into beautifully manicured vineyards.

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Restaurant Parilla

So you have friends and family visiting or maybe its your first time to Argentina and you want to make sure that you experience the culture to the fullest. Whether it be foods you need to try or things you need to experience, this week I’ll give you a starter list of things you should try before leaving! Of course, I’ll start with food…

Food
Dulce de Leche: The closest food in American culture to dulce de leche is caramel. Of course, dulce de leche is much more delicious and regardless of your sweet tooth, you must try this. You can get your first taste in a variety of ways: buy a jar and eat it on bread or fruit (I recommend green apples), order it as a flavor at an ice cream ship, eat it in an alfajor (see below) or even take an artesan dulce de leche liquor shot.

Alfajor: Two cookies stuck together with gobs of dulce de leche and dipped in white or milk chocolate. You can buy them at any kiosk (convenience store) or stock up in large quantities at the Central Market.

Medialuna and Cafe con Leche: Literally meaning half moon, these sweet croissants are a must for any true Argentinian breakfast.

Helado (Ice cream): Not just any ice cream, but Ferrucio Soppelsa, Perrin or Grido. These three ice cream shops at the intersection of Belgrano and Sarmiento (Grido is at Espejo and Sarmiento) are rival ice cream shops, with Ferrucio Soppelsa being the chain ice cream shop in Mendoza and Perrin being the more traditional family-run ice cream shop. Grido is much smaller with fewer flavors, but certainly worth a visit. Everyone has their favorite. And, if you’re on Sarmiento peatonal, Bian y Nero is a must. You can’t go wrong with any of the flavors, and trying Malbec and Torrontes based flavors is of course a must.

Empanadas: I’ve seen empanadas translated as hot pockets, but I cringe at that comparison. Empanadas are made with much more love and taste a million times better. The traditional criolla empanada is stuffed with ground beef, olives, hard-boiled egg and spices, but other popular choices are ham and cheese (jamon y queso), sweet corn (choclo), four cheese (cuatro quesos), and vegetables (verduras). They are available at nearly every restaurant in town, and you can also purchase at corner bakeries or the organic market to cook yourself.

Steak: This one is a bit obvious, but the list wouldn’t be complete without it. Try it with chimichurri sauce and be prepared for large proportions.

Chorizo: Argentinian sausage that’s usually served at asado barbecues. If invited to an asado, rearrange your schedule to make it for this Argentine culinary experience. Nothing quite like the day long grill-out with friends and slow-cooked beef.

Morcilla and other “weird” cow parts: Morcilla, or blood sausage, will surprise you. It has a great pate-like quality. Give it a try, if not just to tell friends you tried it when traveling.  If you’re feeling adventurous, order a parilla, which generally includes not only traditional cuts such as asado de tira (ribs), vacio, chorizo (beef sausage) and chicken, but also morcilla (blood sausage), molleja (throat), chiculines (intestines), rinones (kidneys) and teta de vaca (cow teat).

Milanesas: Breaded and fried meat, similar to schnitzel. Very thinly cut, milanesas can be of veal, chicken, or even soy. Order it a la napolitana and you’ll get it covered in cheese and tomato sauce.

Check back for a suggested to-do list in Mendoza!

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both. A recent college graduate from UNC-Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.

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Yesterday wrapped up the final day of Oktoberfest in Villa General Belgrano (VGB) in the province of Cordoba. While Mendoza obviously touts the fine wines, sometimes it’s nice to take a break for a cold pint. Oktoberfest, also known as La Fiesta Nacional de Cerveza (National Beer Festival), is in VGB is for two weekends every year. The first weekend, September 30th, has a more calm atmosphere as the town gets warmed up for the long holiday weekend. Then the hoards of Argentinians and tourists alike swarm the quaint little German town for beer, beer and more beer.

But, let’s not forget all of the other wonderful aspects of VGB and German culture. There’s the German food, such as Brezn (pretzels), Spätzle (noodles) and all different types of wurst (sausages). There was even beer flavored ice cream. There’s also the traditional German outfits that performers and residents don for this special time of the year. As for performances, there’s pretty much always a dance troupe on stage at the Oktoberfest and if you get there in time, you can see the Oktoberfest queen crowned on the first Friday.

At the festival, everyone buys a beer stein the size of their choice to fill up at the stands. You can even buy a strap to hang the stein by your side. Then comes the difficult decision on what to drink. There are a few large beer companies who sponsor the Oktoberfest, so their beers are obviously readily accessible. However, you can get some great artesanal beers as well. Most of the artesanal beer makers have a blonde (rubia), a red (roja) and a dark beer (negra). I also saw a strawberry beer as well as a few honeys. Antares, as well as Homer Simpson’s Duff beer, were present at the festival. If you want to learn all you can about artesanal beer, there’s a daily tour through one of the breweries on the main avenue.

To get to the Oktoberfest, you can of course drive, but if you’re without a car, you must take a bus from Mendoza to Rio Cuarto and then take a Lep bus from Rio Cuarto to VGB. I, for example, took a seven hour bus to Rio Cuarto and then a three hour Lep bus to Villa General Belgrano. It’s quite a long journey so I would recommend getting a group of friends together and renting a cabin for the weekend.

Jerome Brewery, in El Salto in Potrerillos, also hosted an Oktoberfest celebration this year on October 8th and 9th. More than 500 people attended the celebration this year, just an hour and a half outside the city of Mendoza.

Whether you are celebrating October with a glass of beer or bottle of wine – salud!

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both. A recent college graduate from UNC-Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.

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