I wanted to make a weekend getaway to Malargüe to do basically one thing: eat chivo (goat). Supposedly, they have the best in the region, perhaps even in the country. However, my housemates and I made a grievous error when heading out on the 6:30 Catamarca bus to Malargüe: we had no plans for transportation outside our round-trip bus fare. It takes about six and a half hours by bus to get to Malargüe and getting there is no issue. Yet, there is little to nothing to do within the city—all of the attractions are at least 12 km away, most MUCH farther. So after visiting the tourist office and realizing there really were no public transportation options, we made a plan b.

Our next option was an organized outing. Karen Travel on the main drag (San Martin street, of course) was very friendly and informative and only 200 meters away from the tourist office. However, all of the day trips had obviously already left and for the trip the next day, it would be 200 pesos to go see La Caverna de la Bruja (Witches’ Cave) and maybe Lake Llancanelo, weather permitting. However, for three of us, it would be 600 pesos, which is a good amount of money for young travellers, and we figured we could rent a car for cheaper. Or so we thought.

Lastly, we investigated car rentals. By investigating, I mean we went to the only car rental business in town and waited until they opened. Malargüe takes their siesta very seriously so business hours were as follows: 9-12:30, break for siesta, 5:30-9. We waited and waited for it to open at 5:30 and by 6:15, we gave up. At this point, my roommates had basically given up and were opting to either take the 1:00 a.m. bus back to Mendoza after eating a lot of chivo for dinner, or taking the morning bus back after eating a lot of chivo from the night before.

We had a few more strokes of bad luck before our fate turned around: our hostel informed us the rental agency was closed because all of the cars were already rented until Tuesday. We also went to a few local places that had run out of chivo (!!!).

Finally, our luck really turned around when a local offered to show us around the next day. He dropped us off at La Cima to eat chivo (great restaurant: both the chivo stew and parrilla were delicious!) and promised to meet us the next morning at our hostel. We were skeptical after a day of such bad luck (or rather poor planning) so when he showed up the next day at 8:30 a.m., we knew our Saturday would be much better than our Friday, which it was.

Thus, lesson learned. Malargüe has breathtaking landscapes and beautiful chivo–just make sure you plan appropriately to take advantage of both!

El Pozo de Los Animos: On Route 222 you can see several attractions: Laguna de la Nina Encantada, Valle de Los Molles, Pozo de los Animos (below) and Valle Hermoso.

Las Leñas: ski resort with 14 lifts, 29 slopes, open for day and night ski, 10 miles to ski free, and 1,500 meters Terrain Park with jumps, bumps and rails. (Height above sea level: Base: 2,240 meters; Summit with access: 3,430 meters)

They even drink mate on the slopes!

Los Castillos de Pincheira: volcanic cliffs 27 km west of Malargüe where you can hike to a cave, cross a pedestrian suspension bridge and eat malargüino goat at the local restaurant. You pay 15 pesos to enter, place your chivo order at the restaurant and go hiking for an hour to return just in time for fresh chivo, all you can eat. Absolutely delicious (note: Our Malargüino friend informed us it is acceptable to eat chivo ribs with your hands)

Other sites to check out near Malargue:

The Manqui Malal cascade, The Payunia Natural Reserve, Malacara volcano, Laguna Llancanelo, Caverna de las Brujas, hot springs, golf course and food route (goat and trout road). More information available at www.malargueamatur.com.ar 

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