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Malbec World Day

Saturday, April 16th, 2011

Tomorrow marks the first ever Malbec World Day, a celebration of Argentina’s flagship grape varietal taking place in over forty-seven countries worldwide! Here in Mendoza, the weekend is full of Malbec-related activities and the main even happens today at Tupungato Winelands. Over 200 special guests have been invited to enjoy a cocktail party, hot air balloon rides, and a special auction of vintage Argentine wines. A 1984 Luigi Bosca Malbec worth 2,000 pesos will be sold, as well as a rare 1981 Finca Flichman Caballero de la Cepa.

Elsewhere, in cities like New York, London, and Shanghai, similar events are taking place throughout the weekend. In an interesting international collaboration, wine experts from the U.S., Canada and the UK have been invited to Mendoza to team up with a local winery and pick Argentine grapes. Those grapes will then be shipped in temperature controlled containers back to each country, where they will be crushed and made into wine by local winemakers. In one year the wines will be tasted to see who’s is best!

April 17th has been chosen for Malbec World Day because it marks the day in 1853 when the Quinta Agronomica bill was passed, providing more government funds for agriculture, and specifically the development of vineyards in Argentina. This bill changed the future of local wine forever, and now Argentina is the fifth largest producer of wine worldwide. That’s a pretty good reason to celebrate!

Of course, the best way to celebrate is by drinking lots of delicious Malbec! For tomorrow only The Vines of Mendoza is offering 30% off all bottles of Malbec in our online store! Just type “Malbec” in the offer code box at the top of the screen to get the discount. Take advantage of this great deal and help us “festejar” this important day for Mendoza and Argentine wineries!

A bit about some of the Malbecs you can find in our online store:

2007 Atamisque Malbec  $49

Concentrated and elegant with many layers.

2007 Bacan Reserva Malbec $35

Round and juicy with sweet notes of mint and caramel.

2006 Bodega del Genio Malbec $19

Bold, dark fruit and warm spices.

2007 Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec $30

Powerful yet delicate, an enticingly complex wine.

2007 Caligiore Malbec $15

A savory Malbec with eucayptus and pepper notes.

2004 Cavagnaro Malbec $40

Full and jammy with hints of smoke and coffee.

2006 Dona Silvina Reserva Malbec $69

Rich and complex, with black cherry and floral notes.

2005 Enrique Foster Limited Edition Malbec $60

Get it while it lasts! A local favorite.

2006 Enrique Foster Terruno Lunlunta $31

Lots of berry fruit and good concentration.

2007 Gimenez Riili Reserva Malbec $49

Red and black berries with vanilla and toast.

2006 Inizio Reserva Malbec $23

Earthy, with black fruit and clove.

2006 Laborum Malbec $49

Deeply concentrated with ripe plum and hazelnut.

2006 Lindaflor Malbec $51

Lovely and balanced, a wine to fall in love with.

2006 Maia Malbec $23

Juicy red fruit perfect for picnics!

2005 Montecinco Malbec $79

Rated worlds best Malbec in 2008.

2006 Ricomenciare Altisimo Malbec $40

Cherries and earthy notes, one-of-a-kind.

2009 Serbal Malbec $22

Young and fresh, with lively tannin and plum jam.

Happy Malbec World Day everyone! Let the vino flow!!

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



The Magic of Domaine St. Diego

Saturday, April 16th, 2011

I admit I am in love with visiting wineries. It is probably my number one preferred recreational activity next to tasting and yes, drinking wines.  But after almost four months of winery touring in Mendoza, one does start to get a bit bored with staring at stainless steel tanks listening to guides give slightly different versions of the same speech over and over again. But a recent visit to Domaine St. Diego served as a refreshing reminder of why I love wine and the people who make it. A truly unique winery experience in Mendoza.

Domaine St. Diego is an ultra boutique winery located in the Lunlunta Valley in Maipu, Mendoza. Headed by famed Argentine winemaker Angel Mendoza, this winery started as a family project about twenty years ago and continues to produce wines of very small production that are only available for purchase at the winery. Angel’s daughter, Maria Laura Mendoza guides the tour which focuses exclusively on the vineyards. Mendoza believes that wine should not be made in the winery, but grown in the vineyard.

The sheer amount of information that I absorbed and scribbled hurriedly in my notebook I do not have space to share with you here. Having grown up in the winery, surrounded by vines and wine, Maria Laura is like a walking encyclopedia on vineyard maintenance and “wine growing”.  We began with a short lesson on tasting Malbec grapes to determine ripeness. What’s the trick? First separate the pulp from the skin, then the seed from the pulp, then chew on the seed, then the skin. If the seed separates easily from the pulp, is crunchy when you chew it, and the skin takes more than five chews before it becomes tannic and green in your mouth, you’ve got yourself a ripe Malbec grape ready for picking. Cool, huh?

Along with Malbec, Cabernet, and Chardonnay in the vineyard, the Mendozas have a few vines of the uncommon grape, Apirant Bouschet, planted. Easy to spot for it’s brightly colored leaves with deep crimson veins, this varietal has blood red pulp and is used to concentrate color in the wines. With some of the only hillside vineyards I’ve seen in Mendoza, the estate lies in a protected valley with hills to one side and mountains to the other. This means that they rarely face hail or frost problems, and the hillside vineyards benefit from all-day sun exposure. It’s these sun-saturated grapes go into Mendoza’s Paradigma, an oaked blend that shows that a wine doesn’t have to spend time in the barrel to have concentration or great ageing potential.

Speckled throughout the vines are about 300 olive trees, producing four different varieties. In this photo Maria Laura shows us the difference between Manzanilla and Arauco olives. These seventy year old trees share the land well with the vines, having more shallow root systems that do not compete with the vines for water. Some of the grapes grow in the shade of these trees, and as a result are less ripe and higher acid. Mendoza uses these for the house sparkling wine, Brut Xero, which is impressively produced on site in a traditional variation of the Champenoise Method (AND can be found for sipping in the Vines tasting room!).

After the fantastic tour we returned to the family house to taste the wines and olive oil.  More magic. The olive oil has intensely grassy aromas, with plenty of fruit on the palate and big spice on the finish.  True to the nature of Arauco, it is full bodied and bold in flavor, lovely with the rosemary bread that accompanied. Named Elea, after Mendoza’s granddaughter, the sparkling Malbec rose was full of wild strawberry on the nose and pleasantly refreshing with good acid on the palate. Next, the unoaked 2008 Paradigma, a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet was fresh yet concentrated, with ripe plum and rose aromas, herb, red pepper and juicy red fruit in the mouth.  Refreshingly well balanced, this is a unique wine for Argentina.  Finally, the 2006 Pura Sangre Malbec/Cabernet blend spends two years in the tank, two years in mostly second use French oak, and one year in the bottle. With seductive vanilla, clove, and black cherry jam on the nose, the wine is round and rich on the palate with a wonderful pepper and toast finish. The best part, you can take home the blends for fifty pesos a bottle, the rose and olive oil for a cool thirty pesos.

A one-of-a-kind winery in Mendoza, Domaine St. Diego offers a memorable experience and wines with character. Don’t miss this one next time you’re out tasting in Mendoza!

Domaine St. Diego

F. Villanueva 3821

Lunlunta, Maipu, Mendoza

(0261) 4395557

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



Bodega Corvus at Winemaker’s Night

Friday, April 15th, 2011

Wednesday nights at Vines equal Winemaker love! This week we were pleased to discover the wines of Bodega Corvus, makers of Ala Negra, the bottle with the beautiful label that you’ve probably been wondering about. Joining us to talk about the wines was Gabriela Celeste, winemaker at Bodega Corvus and a member of Enorolland, Michel Rolland’s consulting team. A special treat this week, the wines were paired with dishes created by Marcos Zabaleta, executive chef at Chandon.

The wing! Long family history explains the lone crow wing gracing the labels of these bottles. Ala Negra means “black wing” in Spanish, and this symbol is a tribute to the family’s ancestors who were instrumental in founding Chile.  The Corvalan family shield displays five crow wings like the one on the label. What’s more, the label was designed by Cris Delhez, a famed Argentine painter and sculptor.

The pairings were a delight! With the 2010 Torrontes, we enjoyed a fresh shrimp tartar over avocado and warm tomato confit. The lively floral and citrus characteristics of the wine (produced with grapes from the Calchaqui Valley in Salta) married well with the acid in the fish and avocado.  A light and summery combination. With the 2009 Malbec Rose, Zabaleta prepared a buttered trout crostini with quince honey. The notes of wild cherry and strawberry in the wine complimented the warm, savory trout mini-sandwich well and the quince honey was a nice contrast for this dry rose. Chorizo and Portobello empanadas brought out lots of black and red pepper spices in the 2008 Malbec. This fruit-forward Malbec provided a lively, juicy counterpoint to the richness of the pastry. Finally, veal confit over almond risotto was a nicely rich and savory accompaniment to the 2008 Reserva Malbec, a full-bodied red full of boysenberry and red flowers with spicy tannins and a chocolately finish.

Gabriela Celeste shared with us her passion for winemaking as she explained vineyard practices and how they affect the finished product. As all of the Malbec grapes come from the same vineyard in Lunlunta, Maipu, some are chosen for the rose, some for the classic line, and only the best go into the reserve line. As she spoke, branches crackled and leaves fell from the atrium  ceiling- a result of the strong “Zonda” winds blowing that day.  Celeste talked about how the Zonda could negatively affect the vines during pollination in the springtime, but are not much threat to the vines at harvest time, as the grapes have already developed and most have reached full maturity.

In all it was another interesting, tasty Wednesday night at the Vines of Mendoza.  Thanks to Bodega Corvus and Gabriela Celeste for presenting their wines and to Marcos Zabaleta for providing the parings. See you next week!

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



The Vines and Azafran Unite!

Wednesday, April 13th, 2011

Now that Lindsay’s got you all excited about dining in the cellar, let’s talk about the brand new promotion between The Vines of Mendoza and Azafran! Every time you buy a bottle of wine over $200 pesos  in Azafran’s well-stocked cava, you’ll receive a card worth a discounted Reserve Tasting in the Vines tasting room.  The deal is excellent- get two excellent wine flights for half the price of one. Today I stopped into the tasting room to check out the high-end flights that are included in the promotion.

Two Reserve Flights are available in the tasting room- Reservas de Argentina and Reservas del Valle.  Reservas de Argentina is a tasting of some of the best wines coming from different regions in Argentina- Lujan de Cuyo, Uco Valley, and Cafayate.  A collection of different varietals, styles, and vintages, this flight is a tour of the country, showing the versatility of Argentine wines. Here’s what you’ll taste in Reservas de Argentina:

2009 Bressia Piel Negra Pinot Noir

From local cult wine maker Walter Bressia, this is a sweet, earthy Pinot with lively acidity and plenty of vanilla and spice on the finish.  With fruit from the Lujan de Cuyo, Piel Negra is an excellent display of what this warm, sunny region can do with this classic varietal.  With fresh red fruit, floral aromas, and plenty of earth, Bressia puts out a Pinot that does the grape justice.

2007 Bacan Reserva Malbec

Also from the Lujan de Cuyo, Bacan produces a lush and spicy Malbec. In the tango language, “lunfardo”, Bacan is used to describe a man who is a lover of the good life- dashing, charming with the ladies, indulges in fine wine and parties.  This wine encompasses all of these characteristics- a delightfully lavish, hedonistic Malbec.

2007 Gran Lorca Blend

An assemblage of Malbec, Syrah, and Petit Verdot, Maurico Lorca’s top blend displays impressive structure and fruit concentration. With grapes from the Uco Valley, Lorca has produced an elegant blend with lovely aromas of rose, leather and earth, juicy blackberry fruit on the palate and a lingering finish. My personal favorite of this tasting!

2006 Laborum Tannat

Get a taste of this unique varietal from the world’s highest wine region! Cafayate, Salta is producing impressive wines at staggering altitudes. This five-year-old Tannat is showing an incredible range of secondary flavor characteristics. Bursting with eucalyptus and flower petal on the nose with smoke and red cherry on the palate, this Tannat has a pleasant mouthfeel and plenty of personality.

2007 Atamisque Malbec

From this French-style winery in the Uco Valley, the Atamisque Malbec is the top line of the bodega. Incredibly approachable with juicy black fruit and mint on the nose, this wine opens in the glass, revealing layers of smoke, black cherry, and minerality. With vivacious acidity, the wine shows lovely structure and elegance.  Another favorite.

The Reservas del Valle flight shines a spotlight on the wonderful wines coming out of the Uco Valley, Argentina’s shiny new wine region that’s getting a lot of attention. Here you’ll taste the work of Michel Rolland, Giminez Riili, and more gems from Mauricio Lorca and Atamisque.

A memorable wine experience doesn’t have to end with a great dinner and a bottle at Azafran. Extend the eno-joy and take part in this promotion while it lasts!

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



How to tell what’s IN the bottle by what’s ON the bottle

Sunday, April 10th, 2011

Winemaker Carmelo Patti is extremely proud of his self-designed label.  Visit the winery and he will personally point out to you the details that he includes to make his label distinct: the month of bottling (March 2008) and exactly the number of bottles produced (18,300).  Carmelo is thorough with his label design, and he is among many Argentine producers who use the bottle presentation to convey as much as they can about the juice inside.  With more than 800 wineries in Mendoza alone, picking out a wine at a shop or restaurant can mean shopping by the label, which can be helpful, entertaining, or just downright confusing.

With all of the details that local wineries like to include on their labels, you might feel like you need a sommelier just to translate the outside of the bottle, to understand better what you’re getting into before even getting the cork out. Where here I am! And here are some tips for deciphering the Argentine wine label.

Vino Tinto/Vino Blanco

Generally, red wine/white wine. If a varietal name is not found elsewhere on the bottle, this is probably a blend of grapes. Though traditionally used to describe generic table wines, a number of high-end red blends are marked as “Vino Tinto” today.

Cosecha vs Bottling Date

FYI- Cosecha = harvest. Carmelo’s bottle says “Cosecha 2006″, meaning that the grapes for this wine were all picked in 2006. Meanwhile, the wine was bottled in March of 2008.  This means the wine spent roughly two years ageing in tanks and oak barrels. This is an aged wine before it even hits the market. The tannins will be softer and more integrated, and more “secondary” flavor characteristics (like dried fruit and flowers) will be showing.

A note on vintages:

Most Argentine wines are made to be consumed young! Don’t be scared to buy that 2008 Malbec because most likely it’s fresh, fruity, and drinking nicely. Most 2010 whites are also ready to drink now. In high-end blends, look for more bottle age. Because of beautiful weather, irrigation, and few pest problems, it’s tough to have a bad wine year for Argentina. The best vintages include 1999, 2003, 2005, and 2007.

Region

Local wine producers vary in how they describe where their grapes are coming from. While some simply state “Mendoza, Argentina” on the label, others include a more specific region of Mendoza (Lujan de Cujo), sub-region (Alto Agrelo) or specific vineyard (Finca Remonta).  This Terrazas label mentions the general region (Mendoza) and the sub-region (Las Compuertas), as well as stating “single vineyard”, which means that all of the grapes for this wine come from one vineyard. There are only two D.O.C. (Denominacion de Origen Controlado) wine regions in Argentina- the Lujan de Cujo and San Rafael. When a label reads D.O.C. it ensures that the grapes meet quality standards for that region and that the wine has been in barrel at least eight months, in bottle at least one year.

Altitude

Argentina”s claim to fame! Home to the highest altitude vineyards in the world (Cafayate, Salta), Argentina has had great success growing grapes in regions 980-3000 meters above sea level.  Because of this, you will almost always find some mention of altitude on a local label.  What does it mean? Basically, lower altitude vines will be more productive and make juicier, more fruit-forward wines while higher altitude vines produce wines with more aromas, concentration, and acidity.

Reserve

Officially, for an Argentine producer to put “reserve” on a bottle of red wine, the wine must be aged one year in barrels and two years for “grand reserve”.  For whites it is half of that- six months for reserve and one year for grand reserve. However it should be noted that this law is still in the process of being implemented, and many wineries are still using the word reserve as a brand or marketing tool. On this Andeluna bottle they include Tupungato, which is a sub-region of the Uco Valley, which is the most southerly region of Mendoza and they note that the wine is estate produced and bottled, meaning that the wine is made at Andeluna’s estate and not sent out for vinification or bottling. Basically, they have a facility where they can do it all.

Alcohol

Yep, these wines are big.  Argentine reds can be anywhere from 13.5-16.5% abv.  Don’t let the percentages on the label scare you- the alcohol can be very well integrated, adding body and sweetness. What’s more, remember that local producers have .5% wiggle room when printing labels, so 14.5% can also mean 14% or 15%.

And now that I’ve said all that, don’t forget that it’s what’s inside the bottle that really counts!

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



Winemaker’s Night with Gimenez Riili

Friday, April 8th, 2011

At another packed Winemaker’s Night this week, we were excited to host winemaker Pablo Martorell and the wines from Bodega Gimenez Riili! A family project more than sixty years in the making, the Gimenez Riili winery just finished construction on a brand new winery in the Uco Valley. Literally, it opened yesterday! Among the chaos of harvest and opening an brand new winery, Pablo Martorell and winery owner Pablo Gimenez Riili made time to chat with us about the history of the project and the new developments.

Started in Maipu, Gimenez Riili has three generations of family behind it. Now, with the new bodega in Uco Valley, they are blending grapes from their vineyards in the two regions to achieve greater complexity in the reds.  While vines in Maipu are highly productive, and bear grapes that have fruitier flavors, Uco Valley vines produce more concentrated fruit at lower yields.  In blending grapes from the two regions, Pablo can create a wine with intensity and fresh juicy fruit flavors. The Perpetuum Torrontes is the only oddball- made with grapes coming from the Famatina Valley in La Rioja, the hot new spot to grow Torrontes.

Gimenez Riili also spoke about his connection with Vines of Mendoza, as he is part owner of Vines as well as continuing the family project. His new winery in Uco Valley is actually part of a new “wine village” that the Vines is working on near our own vineyards. This wine village will bring together eight different boutique wineries in one easy-to-access area for Uco Valley visitors.  The Riili bodega is the first of these to officially open up this week.

Throughout the night the conversation kept coming back to the theme of blending grapes from different regions. Riili explained that because the Uco Valley is pristine in being relatively pest-free, the area is controlled, making it very complicated to bring in grapes from other areas, such as Maipu.  Thus his Maipu Malbec is crushed and fermented in the old bodega, then transported in stainless steel tanks to the Uco bodega where it is blended with the Uco Malbec.

The wines were exceptional.  We began with the citrusy 2010 Perpetuum Torrontes.  With crisp tropical fruit on the palate, this white has a clean, mineral-driven finish and a final floral note that lingers. Pablo told the crowd that this is the official summer Sunday family lunch wine for the Gimenez Riilis.  The 2008 Perpetuum Merlot has plenty of dried fruit, flower, and black cherry with a pleasant smokiness.  This wine was the first star of the bodega, selling more than Malbec in the beginning of the project. The 2008 Vista Flores Reserva Malbec was a lovely melange of black pepper spice, black plum, and violet with a hint of smoked meat. Rich, with spicy tannins, this single-vineyard Malbec earned 89 points from Steven Tanzer.

Finally, the super-star of the night, Riili’s 2008 Altamira Malbec displayed sweet red plum, pepper, and red flower petals on the nose, with bright fresh red fruit and toast on the palate with a rich, chocolaty finish. Just in the bottle, this wine won’t be released for another six months.  The previous vintage of this Malbec  scored an impressive 93 points by the Wine Advocate.

Overall another great evening with good company and impressive wines. Thanks again to Pablo Martorell, Pablo Gimenez Riili, and Don Eduardo Gimenez for making time to share their work with us!



Winemaker’s Night with Clos de los Siete

Friday, April 1st, 2011

This week we were excited to host Marcelo Pelleriti, head winemaker for Monteviejo, a Clos de los Siete winery.  Arriving straight from the airport, just off a flight from Buenos Aires, Marcelo arrived fashionably late and smiling. In the middle of the busy harvest, it was great to see such a famed winemaker take time out to visit with us at Vines.

To begin the evening was a slideshow about the Clos de los Siete project in the Uco Valley.  In 1998, French wine consultant Michel Rolland began realizing a dream to make premium Argentine wines in a French style.  He now owns the largest area of vineyard land in South America dedicated solely to premium wine production, and here sits the seven wineries of Clos de los Siete, all managed by French owners of Bordeaux chateaus.  Marcelo Pelleriti spends half of the year making wines at Monteviejo and the other half making wine in Bordeaux at Chateau Violette and Chateaux Le Gay.

Monteviejo was the first Clos winery to be built, harvesting the first vintage in 2002.  Focusing on Chardonnay and Malbec-based blends in the hi-tech, gravity-flow winery, Pelleriti strives to create wines with new world concentration and old world structure and acidity. The tasting on Wednesday consisted of four red wines, the 2008 Clos de los Siete (Malbec, Merlot, Cab, Syrah), 2008 Petit Fleur (Malbec, Cabernet), 2007 Monteviejo (Malbec, Syrah), and the 2006 Lindaflor Malbec.

Much of the evening’s conversation centered around the process of barrel fermenting reds and the details of this years harvest.  For his Lindaflor Malbec, Pelleriti ferments whole cluster berries in French oak barrels, adding dry ice to the barrel two to three times daily to control the temperature. The process beings as a sort of carbonic maceration, with the juice fermenting inside the skins at first. Then, a form of “pigeage”, or punch down, is used to distribute color and tannin from the skins to the juice. While barrel fermenting is normally used in the production of full-bodied white wines, the practice in reds is fairly unusual. Pelleriti speculates that if he had suggested such an idea while studying oenology at university, he definitely would have been kicked out of class. Nevertheless, he believes this method helps to create reds with better oak integration and complexity.

As for the harvest, November hail damaged many vines in the Uco Valley last year, and Monteviejo was not an exception.  For aesthetic purposes, only one hectare of Chardonnay vines are protected by hail nets in these vineyards, leaving the rest vulnerable to such inclement weather.  Although production will be lower this year, Pelleriti still predicts a high quality harvest.

The best treat of the evening was the 2006 Lindaflor Malbec, which recently won an Argentina Wine Award for the best Malbec over $50.  Intensely concentrated, blackish-red in color, the wine opened with aromas of coffee, ripe blackberries, and chocolate.  Still young after 5 years of age, this wine is complex and delicious, but will drink even better in seven to ten years time.

Thanks to Marcelo Pelleriti, Pablo Molinengo and Clos de los Siete for a superb evening with an outstanding selection of wines! Stay tuned for next weeks winemaker!!

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



Cabernets Compared

Wednesday, March 30th, 2011

Earlier this week I helped myself to three of the Cabernet Sauvignons being served at The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room. My objective was to discover what sets ‘Cab’ in Mendoza apart from ‘Cab’ grown elsewhere in the world.

Understanding Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is frequently used in wine blends for its structure; high acid and high tannin. These two elements decline as wine ages in the bottle therefore high quantities of both are crucial for long aging wines. Top Cabernets have characteristics of red current, black berries, cigar box, pencil shavings, mint or eucalyptus, tobacco, coffee, chocolate, vanilla, cedar, etc.

Regions of the world producing some of the most highly acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon include Médoc in Bordeaux, France, Tuscany, Italy, the state of California in the USA, Coonawarra in Australia, and Chile.

A common challenge for ‘Cab’ producers is getting the fruit perfectly ripe. Under ripe fruit translates to the wine, without fail, in the form of sappy, green pepper aromas; which are not well received in wine circles.

Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon

Comparatively Mendoza Cabernets are generally free of under ripe characteristics and are ready to drink sooner than competing Cabernets.

Of the three Mendoza Cabernets I tasted, there were no signs of under ripe fruit. The acidity of great Cabernet was present in the wines, but they lacked the firmness of tannin required for long aging. Instead, the tannins were velvety and easy to drink.

La Flor Pulenta Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
The La Flor range of wines consists of specially selected fruit from young vines. The colour was crimson with brick hues. The nose displayed red cherry, musk, vanilla, dry leaves, and a touch of fennel. On the palate was bright acidity, red fruit and a mineral, medium length finish.

The Clos de Chacras Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
The colour is crimson fading to ruby. It too had aromas of red cherries and musk. However, this wine was comparatively more floral, and had notes of pepper, and pencil lead. On the palate it had good acid, firm tannins and both fresh and jammed raspberries.

Atamisque Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Grapes are sourced from 50 year old vines located 1100 meters above sea level. The colour is deep crimson with pink tears. Red fruit and black berries met my nose along with pencil shavings, coffee, vanilla and graphite. The mouth-feel was round with a medium length, mineral rich finish.

The Verdict

Personally, I enjoyed the intensity of Atamisque best. Clos de Chacras has serious structure and thus, the best aging potential. The La Flor was the underdog of the group due to the youth of the vines, but it shows promising complexity. Soon enough these vines will be producing impressive fruit for the top wines of Pulenta Estate.

Be sure to pick up a bottle of Mondoza Cabernet Sauvignon and judge for yourself. The above wines are available through The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room, Vinoteca at the Park Hyatt Mendoza, or The Vines on-line Wine Shop.

About the author: Lindsay Trivers is a Sommelier at The Vines of Mendoza, in the most recent chapter of her world-wide wine discovery tour. She has worked extensively throughout Canada, New Zealand and Australia, developing her palate and working vintages along the way. While here, in Mendoza, She will be living and reporting on life at the bodega (winery), plus happenings from the tasting room and cellar. Stay tuned to The Vines of Mendoza Blog for vintage updates, wine tips and reviews, to find out how our guests are keeping busy, and much, much more.



Smelly smells!

Tuesday, March 29th, 2011

Ever wonder how sommeliers pick out aromas of cherry, licorice, and bubblegum in wines when most just kind of smell like, well, wine to you? Seem like magic? Well, while we sommeliers would like to think we are magical, the truth is we’ve just done a lot of smelling.  A lot. And though it’s true some people are “supertasters” or may have more highly sensitive smell receptors, anyone can train their noses to pick up certain smells. It’s just a matter of practice!

Now some wineries are making it easier to train your sniffer to pick up all of those lovely little scents that make wine so enjoyable. At Kendall-Jackson Wine Center in Sonoma County, California, you can visit the Wine Sensory Garden, a collection of patches of flowers, fruits, herbs, and spices that correspond to certain types of wine. Taste strawberries from the Pinot garden or green peppers in the Sauvignon Blanc bed.  They call it their “scratch and sniff garden”.  Smelling fresh ingredients next to a glass of wine that expresses the same aromas can help train your senses to more easily detect those aromas the next time you’re enjoying that wine. Plus it’s an interesting and unique wine experience!

Mendoza is also home to an exciting olfactory adventure at local bodega Belasco de Baquedano, where they house the region’s only Aroma Room.  Using natural essential oils, the winery team has collected 46 different aromas that are found in wine for this impressive display.  From floral to fruity to spice, you can test your sniffer by trying to guess the aromas in each container before peeking at the sign on the wall. They have even included the less desirable aromas of defected wines like cork taint and vinegar. Not pretty, but important to know about! Quiet and dark, the room is well-designed for detecting aromas free of extra sensory stimuli.

A fun learning tool, the experience at Belasco de Baquedano helps you spot the aromas that come naturally to your nose as well as those that don’t.  While I detect lemon and coconut with ease, fresh hay and thyme were much more challenging to pick out. Meanwhile, my friend had no problem with thyme, but struggled picking up cedar. Of course every body is different and each person is influenced not only by their biology but by their past experiences. Scent is closely related to memory, which is why some aromas very strongly remind me of my childhood, more than looking at photographs or listening to music.

Just as you have your own personal set of memories, you have your own personal “aroma library” that you draw upon when identifying aromas. The more wines you smell, the more aromas you pay attention to, the larger that library grows until you are impressing your friends by picking out all the weird ones like candle wax, cherry cola, or granite. So go out and start smelling stuff! Wine, fruit, herbs, everything in the produce section of the grocery store. You’ll see it’s all really there in wine. And eventually (perhaps sadly) the sommelier won’t seem so magical after all.

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



Biodynamic Argentina

Friday, March 25th, 2011

Focusing on the external market, Argentine wineries have begun putting more emphasis on their eco-friendly practices. Luckily, Argentina is blessed with incredibly dry, high altitude wine-growing regions where pesticides are rarely needed.  As many vineyards strive for USDA organic certification, others take it to the next level by putting biodynamic principals to use on their vines.  Here are a few answers to common questions about biodynamics in grape growing!

What is biodynamics?

A super-organic set of practices that are based on the idea of thinking about the farm as a self-contained living organism.  Like organic farms, biodynamic farms avoid the use of synthetic chemicals and focus on biological solutions to pest issues, but they take a more holistic approach to grape-growing.  Biodynamics expands on organic by considering that the ecosystem is not only the planet but the entire universe.

Where did it come from?

Biodynamics is a part of Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner’s wider theory of anthroposophy or “spiritual science”.  The farm, he theorized, functions in terms of “formative” forces.  The unbalance of these forces- related to the moon and stars- leads to problems in the vineyards, e.g. fungal growth, etc.  Steiner believed that the main failing of modern science was it’s fixation on analyzing physical effects, as opposed to investigating the underlying forces of these effects.

How does it work?

Biodynamics in viticulture rejects the use of any agrochemicals and relies on two main functions: the formation of specific “preparations” which are applied to the soil in various ways, and the timing of practices in the vineyard (planting, harvest, fertilizing) according to the lunar cycle and zodiac calendar- the “movements of the spheres.”  By these calendars, the viticulturist can determine what part of the vine to focus on and when.  You normally find a range of animals (cows, sheep, chickens) living on the farm that contribute to the production of nutrient-rich compost, as well as pest and weed control.

Cow horns?

One of the most heard-about practices of biodynamic viticulture is the cow-horn preparation.  A paste of ground quartz and rain water is put into a cow horn and buried at the autumn equinox, to be dug back up again six months later in the spring. This mixture is then diluted in water and sprayed on the vines as fertilizer in the springtime.

How can I tell if a wine is biodynamic?

One easy way is to check the label for the Demeter stamp. Demeter is the international organization that certifies biodynamic farms. Like organics, the process for certification is complicated and can take years to achieve, so many farms chose to employ certain practices without seeking certification. If an Argentine winery is using biodynamics, they will most likely state it somewhere on their label or website.

Who’s certified/practicing in Argentina?

Bodega Colome (Salta)- Practicing

Bodega Chacra (Patagonia)- Demeter certified

Bodega Kontriras (Mendoza)- Practicing

Alpamanta (Mendoza)- Practicing

Bodega Noemia (Patagonia)- Demeter certified

To read more about biodynamics in viticulture, check out this website….