So, when I had the great fortune to recently attend The Vines’ adventure to the Galapagos Islands for outdoor adventure and wildlife exploration (you will read more about this here very soon) it came as a great surprise when I showed up with only a medium sized handbag and backpack. And at the end of the trip I realized I brought too much.

So, I’d like to share my recently acquired mastery packing skills, and share my tips on coming to Mendoza with the least amount of luggage possible for those of you headed down during the harvest season.

Here goes:

1) Flip flops or your other favorite flat shoes – It’s a very casual town and you will be doing a lot of walking to see all the plazas and do empanada tasting. So, when in Rome …

2) Sundress – Fits in with the relaxed but not quite hippy-ish vibe of most hangouts in the city. You can wear it to an upscale restaurant or to a dive bar. You will get cat calls at either location. Embrace it. It’s a regional past-time.

3) Polo Shirt / Khakis – If you’re a man, a polo shirt and khakis will suit you in the fanciest location here. At an asado, you’ll be the most dressed up without looking pretentious. But hey, why not impress.

4) Jeans – You will likely get on a horse at some point, and you probably don’t want chafing. And/or, you will likely be punching down grapes at some point and would like to avoid a purple skin hue. Either way, enough said.

5) Hoodie/Fleece – What keeps our grapes so perfect is that the weather cools at night. Prepare yourself accordingly so you’re not too chilly for Pollo Al Disco outside underneath the stars.

6) T-shirt – You could wear a sundress with the jeans, but you might want something more comfortable.

7) Undergarments –You’re an adult. We’ll leave you to make these decisions on your own.

8) Camera – There are countless locations to take phenomenal photos, whether your camera is a point and shoot, or the fanciest model (and either way you should be sure to get tips from Michael).

9) Sunscreen and other toiletries – It’s sunny over 300 days a year, so this is a must to protect your skin. Keep in mind for this and other crèmes and cosmetics, it may be difficult to find what you’re used to using at home, so be sure to pack at least a few small bottles.

10) Marshmallows and peanut butter – To bribe the expats to carry your luggage.

We hope to see you in Mendoza soon, with a tiny backpack or even four. Vamos!

Sharon Nieuwenhuis is The Vines’ new pr pro and believes the right pair of shoes can solve most, if not all, of life’s problems.

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Starting this week are a string of cultural events in the evening in Parque San Martin which often turn out to be some of the best kept secrets of the Harvest Festival agenda:

Cinema in the Park – Bring your Spanish dictionary for this one, because next to the rose garden there will be showings on a big screen of different Mendocinean and Argentine films for a few evenings at the end of January and beginning of February. The closest you can get to a drive-in here and no doubt there will be plenty of young Mendocinos trying John Travolta’s old ‘yawning into a hug’ trick. Chuck a pillow and some mate (Argentine herbal tea) in your bag and watch the films starting at 9.30pm on 24, 25 and 31 of January as well as the 1, 2, 7, 8 and 9 of February.

Dancing in the Park – It might sound like a misspelt Bruce Springsteen song, but there is no mistake in this Vendimia event. Three nights of different traditional dances and music including folk, Arabic belly dancing, flamenco and, of course, tango. For me there is no night quite so quintessentially Argentine then to sit with lots of families crowded around mini picnic tables sharing picadas and malbec, watching smoky-eyed dancers seducing each other through tango, or latin heartthrobs rapping their feet against the boards in fast moving flamenco to the cries of ‘ole’ from the audience. It kicks off at 9.30pm on 26, 27 and 28^th Jan.

Jazz by the Lake – In front of Parque San Martin’s picturesque floating island in the middle of the lake, a make shift stage frames some of Mendoza’s best jazz musicians for three nights of open air concerts. Not just jazz, but always a fusion with tango, bossa nova and big band – each night a handful of different performers and groups play to the crowd for a couple hours of gorgeous live music and star gazing. Starting at 8pm on 10, 11 and 12^th Feb.

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza who still very much believes in old fashioned romance.

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I love a good picnic. Maybe it’s something inherently English in me, but checkered blankets, wicker baskets and specially designed crockery send little shivers down my spine.

And Mendoza is the perfect place for a picnic – stunning mountain scenery, 350 sunny days a year and loads of great bottles to crack open upon your comfy picnic rug. How better to spend an afternoon than sipping cool Torrontes under olive trees and looking at the snow dusted Cordon del Plata? This might be my English picnic sentimentality creeping in here again… but here are some top spots for picnics in Mendoza:

Picnic in the Park

With a park the same size as the city, Parque San Martin is the quintessential picnic spot for Mendoza. I particular love to unroll my mat on the island in the middle of the lake – a nice shady spot, and not to mention that the strapping, handsome rowing team circling the lake make good viewing. The upcoming evening Jazz on the Lake (10 – 12 Feb) concerts are just begging to be accompanied by smoked salmon bagels and espumante…

Winery picnics: Alta Vista

The latest winery to add gourmet picnics to their offerings, this fab French winery now provides kitsch picnic sets with bento boxes filled with gourmet nibbles such as caramelized onion and mushroom puff pastry slices; eggplant, goat’s cheese and olive oil focaccia; and roast beef ciabatta. All in miniature size you can pick your way through three appetizers, three salads, three sandwiches and finally three desserts while accompanied by a couple glasses of Alta Vista wine. The view of the mountain range is just the icing on the cake! ** Alta Vista, Alzaga 3972, www.altavistawines.com $300 pesos for two people.

Potrerillos

This dam is pretty stunning. A sparkling big blue lake set against a mountain backdrop is idyllic for a picnic. Make sure you bring cushions and a wind breaker as the rocks are pretty hard and the wind picks up quite a bit in the afternoon making it quite the dining ‘al fresco’ experience. When the wind does get going, you can catch a few wind and kite surfers on the water.

Sausage rolls in the hot springs

Sitting in thermal springs with a glass of red and a picnic by your side is a pretty cool way to go. About an hour from Mendoza, Cachueta is a beautiful ravine with thermal springs running through it. Surrounded by the rugged Andes mountains you can park up on the road and scramble down the hillsides to have a picnic by the springs. The walk down is a pretty hair raising experience, but hot relaxing water awaits below, and hopefully the obligatory bottle of Malbec will give you some Dutch courage to get back up again!

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza and content to find any excuse to bring out her cheese and ham sarnies for dining al fresco.

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1) Farmacia

Your first port of call when you are in pain is the farmacia (pharmacy or chemist in English). They are all over the city and usually open till quite late (but usually close in the siesta, so time your illness well).

As with any normal chemist there is always someone trained in medicine on the staff who can help you with what you need and most drugs are available here – if they tell you that a prescription is required, a nice tip will often solve the problem. But make sure to check your inhibitions at the door – Mendoza’s farmacias are a meeting point for many local oldies. This means that you will have to explain in detail exactly what’s wrong with you in front of Mendoza’s silver society, and probably accept their advice and remedies as well as the pharmacist’s.

The audience participation can be particularly embarrassing if you have a rather personal problem or have forgotten the word for contraceptive and have to resort to explanation. A sort of verbal Charades if you may.

2) Private Clinics

Healthcare here is free, but a lot of people prefer to go private (you’ll see why in point 3). If you have the cash (or insurance), the private clinics are the way forward – they are quicker and more private, however every consultation charges a fee so bring your checkbook. Don’t forget that your passport or ID is sometimes required.

3) Public Hospitals and Clinics

Public healthcare here is of good standard and with some great doctors but, as aforementioned, healthcare in Argentina is free. This means that the hospitals are full with patients of almost every other neighboring country in South America. And lines are long.

If you need emergency medical attention, you will go almost directly to the front of the line, but if your problem is less urgent you need to get to the hospital early to take a ‘turno’ (or number in the line), not unlike public healthcare in the U.S. Most hospitals start issuing turnos at 8am, but don’t come anytime after 8:00 a.m. People start arriving at 6:30 a.m., so to get anywhere decent in the line, you need to get there early too. If you miss your slot, you’ll have to wait until the next day, so wear comfy shoes and don’t forget to bring a book.

Once your turn is up, be prepared to leave your all your inhibitions and modesty in the waiting room. Doctors in Argentina all greet each other and their patients with a kiss,  even in the middle of consultations or sometimes treatments. So, don’t be surprised when the nurse walks in, kisses you both on the cheek and has a little chat about her weekend, no matter what’s happening on the operating table… Welcome to Argentina!

Some useful addresses

Pharmacias – They are so ubiquitous it will not take you more than a block or two walking in the city centre to find one. You can usually spot them by the big cross symbol and ‘Pharmacia’ sign.

Private Clinics – One of the most central is Clinica Colon, Av Colon 277, they can help with general medical issues or direct you to a specialist.

Public Hospitals – Hospital Central, Alem 410; Hospital Lagomaggiore, Gordillo.

Emergency number – 107

Useful Spanish:

Ache, pain – dolor

Bite (insect) – picadura

Broken bone – hueso roto

Constipation – estreñimiento

Fever – fiebre calenture

Flu – gripe

Heartburn – acedia

Infection – infección

Injury – herida

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza with a big bag of painkillers and a tendency to avoid hospitals at all costs.

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Where I grew up it would be impolite to arrive to a business meeting half an hour late, and just plain rude to turn up over an hour and a half late for a date. But here, either barely raise an apologetic eyebrow. This is ‘Argen-time’, and punctuality is not part of the vocab.

Last week I went to an Argentine friend’s asado – we’ll call him Juan. Not knowing anyone, apart from Juan obviously, I decided to play it safe, drop the gringo act and arrive in ‘Argentime’. The asado was at nine. At 9:10 I very coolly (or so I thought) cleaned the house a bit and casually went to shower. 9:30 I’m listening to a bit of music in my room, have a glass of wine poured and am getting changed in an incredibly nonchalant way, feeling pretty good (or downright smug) about how this time I’m going to be the last to arrive. 9:45 I am ready and a bit bored. 9:50 I’m sitting on the edge of my bed, waiting and urging the clock hands to hit ten. 10:00 pm finally arrives, and I jump up and head out. Walking at snail’s pace and pausing to look at pretty flowers, cats, trash in the irrigation channels and any old crack in the pavement, I manage to turn a 7-minute walk into a 25-minute meander.

10.25pm I’m stood in front of my friend’s door, with my ear to the wood listening to check the party is already swinging. I can’t hear anything. I deliberate. I really wanted to be the last to arrive, but then I don’t want to miss out on the first innings of choripan.  My stomach grumbles and I ring the bell. Half tempted to lean indifferently with one elbow on the door frame, I’m feeling pretty darn good about my late arrival – an hour and a half late, that’s like 90 whole minutes, probably a couple more by now, not that I’m counting.

A stranger answers the door in his pajamas and looks at me a bit peeved. “I’m here for the party” I say, trying my hardest not to sound too eager or squeaky. “You’re early,” he replies, “Juan has just gone down to the shops to get the meat.” “Oh” I reply, a moment more rolls by. “I guess you can come in and wait in here if you like.”

I sit in the living room while the roommate showers. I twiddle my thumbs, looking at the clock on the table, cursing my continued, foolish attachment to timekeeping. Juan comes back 20 minutes later, and finally at 11pm the next guest turns up. It’s another gringo.

Damn Argentime!

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza to learn about wine and unlearn the art of time.

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Tell us a bit about Cruzat Larrain and what is special about it…

“Our philosophy to keep the sparkling wine tradition and using the Champenoise method to make the wines. The owners have a winery in Chile and produce high quality wines from there and decided to start making wines in Argentina – as they preferred the potential of the region. And they called Pedro Rossell, the father of sparkling wine here in Argentina, to make the wines – he understands the different terroirs really well that give us the opportunity for a state of art sparkling wine.”

We’ve all practiced tasting still wines but what’s the secret to tasting a sparkling wine?

“The difference is that you definitely don’t swirl! If you swirl you lose all the bubbles. Seeing the pearlage and crown is important to show that the wine is at the right temperature.”

Tonight there have been some great pairings with sparkling wines. What is your favourite Cruzat Larrain wine and what do you like to pair it with?

“I love the Rosado and I think one of the best pairings is with tenderloin steak because meat is the backbone of the of Argentine character and sparkling wine is the highlight of the wine industry -the King or Queen of wine. It’s a very good way to join the two cultures.”

What is your favorite aspect of drinking a bottle of fizz?

“The experience! I think Napoleon said “in victory you deserve champagne, when you are defeated you need champagne.” I share the same philosophy. With this style of sparkling wine it is enjoyable even by yourself with a good book and looking at the mountains.”

Each of your different wines are given an animal character on your website. If you were in the animal kingdom what would you be and why?

“I would be a bull because I like to know where I am standing before I move. Once I make my decision I move forward without doubt and always in fifth gear! But maybe I’d be a genetic cross with a pig because they get to enjoy all the material pleasures!”

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist who lives in Mendoza and cannot tear herself away from the mountains and Malbec.

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THE RESTAURANT

A new dining option that shines in Chacras de Coria is Dantesco Restaurante, an easy walk from the central plaza. From the moment you set foot on the property, you are immediately charmed. They offer a variety of intimate dining spaces from an outdoor patio to  warm kitchen-esque room with exposed wooden beams and vintage accents. Or, move to their covered patio for the best of outside/inside options. Feeling a bit high brow? Try their beautiful and more formal dining room.

THE FOOD

The food speaks for itself with a multitude of options and the ability to mix and match, a true rarity in the Mendoza dining scene. From amazing shrimp and avocado ceviche, grilled mollejas (sweetbreads), an incredible picada (antipasto plate), stuffed sirloin steak, delicious salads and grilled vegetables to desserts. It is like a Thanksgiving dinner that you don’t have to cook!

You can also take a stroll through their wine cellar to pick your own bottle, or chat with Jesus, the sommelier to get some good pairing ideas.

Overall you will not be disappointed by this lovely restaurant. If you live locally and want to throw a party, they also have a full service catering branch. Yum!

DETAILS

Address: Italia 5829, Chacras de Coria

Phone: (0261) 496 1991
Email: restaurante(at)dantescorestaurante.com
Website: www.dantescorestaurante.com

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San Martin Park-La Isla de Inmigrantes (Immigrant Island)

If you’re staying in Mendoza city center with an extra afternoon on your hands, it can be difficult to know where to start in exploring the city. While many of Mendoza’s main attractions, such as the lovely wineries, are located outside the city and require a rental car or a hired driver, here are a few sights you can see on foot.

San Martin Park:  El Parque de General San Martin itself is massive, but there’s a nice lake at the entrance of the park that is ideal for lounging with a bottle of wine, cheese and olives. You can also take a nice stroll around the lake with an ice cream from the Ferrucio Soppelsa truck parked nearby or sit on one of the benches in the rose garden and people-watch. The park is packed on Sunday afternoons as families and friends get together weekly to catch up with each other. The park begins at Avenida Boulogne Sur Mer.

Plaza de Independencia: After a massive earthquake struck decades ago, city planners constructed four plazas surrounding one main plaza, Plaza de Independencia, to give Mendocinos a refuge. Plaza de Independencia has a lovely main fountain as well as an assortment of vendors selling their craftwork during the evenings—the most popular night to go are Sundays. While Plaza de Independencia, as well as the four surrounding plazas now have the national guard  patrolling the area, it’s always best to avoid the plazas late at night.

Mercado Central: Located at Las Heras and Patricias Mendocinas, the Central Market is the oldest and biggest market in Mendoza, offering fresh fruits, vegetables and of course, meat. Word of caution to those with light stomachs. It’s not uncommon to see an entire pig carcass at the butchers. The Central Market can be a great place to stock up for a picnic in the park. There’s also a food court within the market for those who don’t do much cooking themselves.

Aristides: THE street to grab a beer, sit outside and enjoy life. The street is packed Wednesday through Sunday with people going out between the hours of 10 p.m. and 6 a.m., but ordering a nice meat and cheese plate (called a picada) is a normal Saturday afternoon affair as well if you’re not accustomed to the late Argentinian schedule.

Cerro de La Gloria: Glory Hill is located within San Martin park, but its quite the hike from the entrance. If you enter the main gates of the park at Boulogne Sur Mer and Emilio Civit and keep walking a few miles, you will reach Mendoza’s zoo at the foot of Cerro de La Gloria. If you ascend the same hill, you’ll see Mendoza’s dedication to General San Martin, the “liberator” of Argentina, and his troops. If you’re not up for the walk, there are orange tour buses at the intersection of Sarmiento and 25 de Mayo in the center that give you a tour around the city, including to Cerro de La Gloria. To really immerse yourself in the culture, take the city bus 112 Zoologico on Line 3 at the same intersection—make sure you have $1.40 in change as the buses don’t accept bills.

In addition to these main sites, walking down the Sarmiento pedestrian path doing some shopping or grabbing souvenirs on Las Heras can be a great way to spend a relaxing, low-key afternoon. Look for our next post on close by daytrips from Mendoza—to the wineries, the mountains and beyond!

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I am often asked which Malbecs are my favorites. So, in the spirit of Thanksgiving, I wanted to share five Malbecs with you that I appreciate the most. For our friends outside of Argentina, these are great cold weather wines to pair with today’s turkey, comfort food and, of course, steak! Check them out and let us know what you think.

Pulenta Estate Malbec 2008 – $29 Every one of their wines is a great value for the price – they simply don’t make a bad wine.

Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec 2007 – $30 Walter Bressia is a true craftsman and gentleman — and it comes across in this wine

Laborum Malbec 2006 – $49 From up North in Salta – intense and rustic. Boom!

Lindaflor Malbec 2006 - $51

Our neighbors from across the street at Clos De Los Siete — the perfect balance of elegance and power by Michel Rolland.

And my favorite Malbec of all time:

Achaval-Ferrer Finca Bellavista $100

Ah, my friend Santiago — the magic that you pull from these old vines and into the bottle inspires and delights!

Happy Thanksgiving!

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Restaurant Parilla

So you have friends and family visiting or maybe its your first time to Argentina and you want to make sure that you experience the culture to the fullest. Whether it be foods you need to try or things you need to experience, this week I’ll give you a starter list of things you should try before leaving! Of course, I’ll start with food…

Food
Dulce de Leche: The closest food in American culture to dulce de leche is caramel. Of course, dulce de leche is much more delicious and regardless of your sweet tooth, you must try this. You can get your first taste in a variety of ways: buy a jar and eat it on bread or fruit (I recommend green apples), order it as a flavor at an ice cream ship, eat it in an alfajor (see below) or even take an artesan dulce de leche liquor shot.

Alfajor: Two cookies stuck together with gobs of dulce de leche and dipped in white or milk chocolate. You can buy them at any kiosk (convenience store) or stock up in large quantities at the Central Market.

Medialuna and Cafe con Leche: Literally meaning half moon, these sweet croissants are a must for any true Argentinian breakfast.

Helado (Ice cream): Not just any ice cream, but Ferrucio Soppelsa, Perrin or Grido. These three ice cream shops at the intersection of Belgrano and Sarmiento (Grido is at Espejo and Sarmiento) are rival ice cream shops, with Ferrucio Soppelsa being the chain ice cream shop in Mendoza and Perrin being the more traditional family-run ice cream shop. Grido is much smaller with fewer flavors, but certainly worth a visit. Everyone has their favorite. And, if you’re on Sarmiento peatonal, Bian y Nero is a must. You can’t go wrong with any of the flavors, and trying Malbec and Torrontes based flavors is of course a must.

Empanadas: I’ve seen empanadas translated as hot pockets, but I cringe at that comparison. Empanadas are made with much more love and taste a million times better. The traditional criolla empanada is stuffed with ground beef, olives, hard-boiled egg and spices, but other popular choices are ham and cheese (jamon y queso), sweet corn (choclo), four cheese (cuatro quesos), and vegetables (verduras). They are available at nearly every restaurant in town, and you can also purchase at corner bakeries or the organic market to cook yourself.

Steak: This one is a bit obvious, but the list wouldn’t be complete without it. Try it with chimichurri sauce and be prepared for large proportions.

Chorizo: Argentinian sausage that’s usually served at asado barbecues. If invited to an asado, rearrange your schedule to make it for this Argentine culinary experience. Nothing quite like the day long grill-out with friends and slow-cooked beef.

Morcilla and other “weird” cow parts: Morcilla, or blood sausage, will surprise you. It has a great pate-like quality. Give it a try, if not just to tell friends you tried it when traveling.  If you’re feeling adventurous, order a parilla, which generally includes not only traditional cuts such as asado de tira (ribs), vacio, chorizo (beef sausage) and chicken, but also morcilla (blood sausage), molleja (throat), chiculines (intestines), rinones (kidneys) and teta de vaca (cow teat).

Milanesas: Breaded and fried meat, similar to schnitzel. Very thinly cut, milanesas can be of veal, chicken, or even soy. Order it a la napolitana and you’ll get it covered in cheese and tomato sauce.

Check back for a suggested to-do list in Mendoza!

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both. A recent college graduate from UNC-Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.

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