The Vines of Mendoza | Blog

Wine Education in Mendoza

Wednesday, August 31st, 2011

 

Two of the teachers at the Wine Institute at Septima winery--one of the best perks of taking a wine course are the field trips!

So perhaps you’ve made a few visits to the bodegas and realized you’d like to learn a lot more about wine in one of the Great Wine Capitals of the World. Here are a few hints:

Classes: Most short-term classes cover a brief history of wine and Argentine wine regions (class 1), how different wines are made (class 2), a service class covering how differents wines should be served (class 3), pairings (class 4), the proper tasting techniques (class 5) and a final class on distilling (class 6). I think every institutions offers a blind tasting at each class.

Wine Institute: conveniently located at Sarmiento and Belgrano, Wine Institute offers a variety of options in terms of how long classes are, what material is covered in the class, etc. I deferred to this route without much investigation, but I’m really enjoying the laid-back nature of the classes, the extensive knowledge of the teachers and of course, the wine tasting at the end of every class. Sarmiento 786, (0261) 4230909 www.wineinstitute.com.ar

Enoteca: The local government wine foundation also offers one-time courses ($25 pesos) as well as somelier courses, although you really have to contact the Enoteca to stay on top of what their current events are…They also offer an online manual of their lessons. http://www.fondovitivinicola.com.ar/escuelas/index.html enoteca@fondovitivinicola.com.ar / Peltir 611. Ciudad de Mendoza / Tel. 0261- 4295274

EAS (Escuela Argentina de Sommelier): EAS is located at Hipólito Yrigoyen 242 and runs short courses as well as two year sommelier courses.  The Mendoza Sun recently posted a review on their courses. http://www.sommeliers.com.ar/mendoza.php

Educational Experiences

Winemaker’s Night: I’ve blogged on Vines of Mendoza’ Winemaker’s Night before but if you’re just passing through Mendoza and don’t have a lot of time to devote to an actual class, Winemaker’s Night is a nice way to learn about the winemaking process, etc. with the insight of someone who lives and breathes wine every day.

Blending Room: I don’t think it gets much cooler than making your own wine, and the Vines Blending Room lets you do that in one afternoon! Open 3-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. I’m counting down the days until I make my first wine in the Blending Room on September 13 so check back for a review.

Aroma rooms: Two wineries in Lujan de Cuyo have aroma rooms to help you start training your nose:

1. Belasco de Baquedano 261 153 023 491, www.belascomalbec.com

2. Pulenta, 261 420 0800, www.pulentaestate.com

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both. A recent college graduate from UNC-Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.

 

 



Brief History of Wine in Argentina!

Thursday, August 25th, 2011

The gates to General San Martin Park in Mendoza

After I started blogging for Vines of Mendoza, I realized how much I had to learn about wine so I took the plunge and signed up for a sommelier course at Wine Institute. It was kind of a whim as I was walking past the door one day and decided to go in and ask for more information and a week later here I am already one lesson in. Look for a blog post later this week on where you can take different wine classes in Mendoza.

Since Argentineans celebrated Dia de San Martin Monday (although it technically is on August 17), I’ll share my latest history lesson on wine in Argentina.

Argentina is the most important country in terms of wine in South America–just last year Argentina exceeded Chile in wine exports. Currently, the order of wine exportation is as follows: Italy, France, Spain, the U.S. and Argentina. No coincidence that a huge amount of the immigrants who came to Argentina were Italian and Spanish, and the famous Malbec comes from France.

The first vines planted in Argentina was in 1557 in the province of Santiago del Estero by Juan Sedron. However, his intentions were pure: the wine was for church mass. Ten years later in 1567, Mendoza was founded and the first vines were planted here sometime between 1569 and 1589. Many of these first inhabitants were Jesuits, who were able to imitate the irrigation systems of the Incas living near the area before them.  A French agronomist named Miguel Aimé Pouget brought a grape you might be familiar with called the Malbec to Mendoza around this time period. However, at this time, quantity was valued over quality in the vineyards and this trend would continue for several hundred years.

Flash forward a few centuries when European immigrants began pouring into the country, mostly from Italy, France and Spain.  With them they brought their skills in the wine trade as well as new grape varieties (many were actually escaping a phylloxera epidemic that was ravaging their vineyards in their homelands). In 1885, a rail system between Mendoza and Buenos Aires was established, partially funded by the Trapiche winery owner Don Tiburcio Benegas who had the foresight to understand that if Argentina’s wine industry was to succeed, it needed to expand its market.

In 1920, Argentina was the eighth richest nation in the world–but then the Great Depression hit, and foreign investment came to a halt. However, for the next 50 years of political and economic turmoil, Argentina’s wine industry would be sustained by the impressive amount of domestic consumption of homegrown cheap, table wine. In 1970, Argentineans were drinking 90 liters per capita versus the U.K and the U.S. who were drinking three and two liters, respectively. Argentineans were drinking 30 times more! Nowadays, Argentina is the third top consumer of wine, drinking 30 liters per capita.

An important shift occurred, however, approximately 20-30 years ago. Argentina shifted from producing cheap, table wine to producing some of the top wines in world. Which is why we can now enjoy the beautiful Andes mountains and sip excellent wines right here in Mendoza!

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both. A recent college graduate from UNC-Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.



La Rural: Mendoza’s Most Historical Bodega

Friday, August 19th, 2011

 

August is a month full of history for Mendoza. First of all, August 17 is el dia de San Martin, or the day that Argentina commemorates the death of the most important leader in Argentina’s emancipation from Spain. You can’t find a town in Argentina that doesn’t have a San Martin street. In actuality, he’s not only a national hero in Argentine, but in Chile and Peru as well. General San Martin holds particular importance in Mendoza and the Cuyo region where he was governor, trained his famous “Army of the Andes,” and planned a devisive disinformation campaign to confuse the Spaniards by sending messages on what passageway his army would take through the Andes, allowing the message to fall into enemy hands and then going the opposite way as the message indicated. Not only does Mendoza have several streets named after him (including one of the most important), there’s also Parque de General San Martin (General San Martin Park) and Cerro de la Gloria (Glory Hill dedicated to his army).

Additionally, last weekend marked the beginning of elections and August 16 is University Day for UNCuyo, celebrating its 72nd anniversary. In light of these many historic events and celebrations, I’d like to spotlight one of Mendoza’s most historic wineries: La Rural.

This 100-year-old colonial style bodega is located in Coquimbito, one of Argentina’s oldest viticultural zones. In addition to producing great Argentine wines, La Rural also houses a museum of antique tools and other objects that were used to make wine in Argentina during the nineteenth century. As a result, the winery’s tour is like taking a trip back in time where you can appreciate the labor and sacrifice that went into wine production a century ago.

Today, the winery has a stainless steel tank capacity of ten million liters and uses modern equipment to ferment and preserve its fine red and white wines. Using grapes from its four Mendoza vineyards, La Rural is much more than an old-fashioned curiosity – this thriving bodega exports wines throughout the world and has helped promote increasing demand for Argentine wine among international consumers.

 Address: Montecaseros 2625 – Coquimbito
Phone: (261) 497-2013
Email: museo(at)bodegalarural.com.ar
Website: www.larural.com
Hours: Monday to Saturday from 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm every 30 mins. / Sunday from 10am to 1pm every 1 hour
Reservations Required: Only for groups over 20

Brands: Rutini, San Felipe, Trumpeter, Pequeña Vasija
Recommended Wines: Rutini label varietals, especially the Rutini Malbec.

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both. A recent college graduate from UNC-Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.

 

 



Pulenta Estate: Best Tour Guide

Tuesday, August 16th, 2011

 ”Hacer un gran vino es un acto de generosidad, de pensar siempre en el otro que lo degustará. Nuestra misión es producir series limitadas de grandes vinos, elaborados con orgullosamente hechos en Argentina.” (To make a great wine is an act of generosity, to be thinking always in how the wine will taste to another. Our mission is to proudly produce a series of limited fine wines here in Argentina.)

It’s always such a treat whenever anyone comes to visit because it means it’s time to visit the wineries. This time around was no exception and visiting the wineries at this time of the year is especially nice because they’re not very busy and you get most individualized attention. Do wear a coat for the chilly cement cellars.

Anyhow, after visiting Pulenta Estate today, I had to write something up because of the very thorough explanations we received from our tour guide, Soledad. Sometimes when visiting wineries, the tour guides assume you already know as much as they do and only tell a few unique characteristics about their own winery. However, even after arriving a bit late (Argentinean time, right?), we got a rundown start to finish on how wine is made in general and the special characteristics of Mendoza’s wine region.  

Pulenta is a medium-sized bodega located in Alta Agrelo in Lujan de Cuyo. The winery is dedicated to only producing a limited amount of fine wines so they only select a portion of their grapes for their wines and sell the rest to other wineries (for example, they sell some of their grapes to Chandon for their sparkling wine). The Pulenta family has been involved in wineries for three generations and used to own Trapiche winery before they sold it within the last decade and then opened Pulenta in 2002. Antonio Pulenta is 93 years old and credits his longevity to lifelong wine drinking. If you’d like to try their wines beforehand, their lines are (from lowest to highest): La Flor, Pulenta Estate  and Pulenta Gran Corte.  The visit ranges from 30-60 pesos, depending on how many wines you’d like to taste.

http://www.pulentaestate.com

 



Listen to the Conference Call: “Argentine Wines in the EuropeanMarket”

Friday, August 12th, 2011

 


“Argentine Wine Sales and Trends in the European Market conference call was hosted on August 10th, 2011 by Michael Evans and Pablo Giménez Riili from The Vines of Mendoza, along with Eduardo Pulenta of renowned Bodega Pulenta Estate, Mauricio Llaver of Revista Punto a Punto and Andrew Maidment, PR manager for Wines of Argentina in Europe.

From left to right: (bottom) Mauricio Llaver, Eduardo Pulenta | (top) Michael Evans, Pablo Gimenez Riili

Mauricio Llaver is a Mendoza-based journalist specialized in Economics and Wine Industry. He has a 20-years career and has been Fellow of the International Center for Journalists (ICFJ) and the American Society of Newspaper Editors (ASNE). He is bussines-magazine Punto a Punto’s publisher and has radio columns and programs mainly devoted to wine. He also runs his web site
www.mauriciollaver.com and has covered Vinexpo’s last two editions (2009/11).

Eduardo Pulenta is the export manager for Bodega Pulenta Estate. With a winemaking history dating back to 1914,  Eduardo and Hugo Pulenta decided to carry on the family tradition with a focus on high quality wines with passion and dedication and in 2001 founded Pulenta Estate.  They now export around the world and have one of the best reputation and highest quality wines found in Mendoza.

Andrew Maidment runs the European division of Wines of Argentina – the trade body that manages the promotion of Argentine wines in the exports markets. His primary role is to develop marketing strategies for ‘Brand Argentina’ tailored specifically to each country, with the aim of raising the awareness of Argentina’s wines amongst both wine trade professionals and the end consumer.

Activities include: developing large scale ‘on’ and ‘off-trade’ promotions, wine tasting events (trade and consumer), obtaining positive and sustained press presence, advertising, product placement and the organization and planning of trips to Argentina for key individuals or businesses.

Wines of Argentina currently has approximately 250 member wineries.

 









What´s Going On in Mendoza (August 7-13)

Sunday, August 7th, 2011

Here are a few interesting events coming up you might want to check out!

Sunday, August 7

Dance-Tango

Milonga with Ana y Luis. Go to watch or participate.

Time: 21 a 1.30

Place: Teatro Bar San Juan (San Juan 456 casi Morón, Ciudad, Mendoza)

Music-El dúo. (The Duo) International and national covers.

Time: 22.30

Place: Ambar Living Bar (Sarmiento y 25 de Mayo, Ciudad., Mendoza)

Art-Exposition at the Museum of Modern Art in Mendoza

José Luis Molina with his work ´Límites` y Luis Freire with `Proyecto 1980`.

Time: 9 a 20

Place: Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno de Mendoza (Plaza Independencia, Ciudad, Mendoza)

Phone: 4257279

Mail: mmamm@ciudaddemendoza.gov.ar

Price: $ 8

Monday, August 8

Language Learning-Intercultural meetings points. Practice new languages with native speakers.

Time 21.30

Place Kasa Babylön. San Martín 1701 de G. Cruz.

Price Free.

Dance-Tango Night.  Alberto Luchetti (voice) and Ballet de Marta Morel -Gonzalo Cano (dance).

Time 21.30

Place Tajamar. Peatonal Alameda 1921, Cdad. 4256165.

Wednesday, August 10

Tea and Style Tips at La Bourgogne de Diplomatic Hotel, Alejandro Ferraro presents his collection “Alquimia”.

Time 17.30 RSVP. Reservations: 405 1999 or e-mail labourgogne@parksuites.com.ar

CINEMA-Cineclub Stocco. Ciclo David Cronenberg: “Dead Ringers”.

Time 21.00

Place Microcine Municipal. 9 de julio 500, Cdad. 4495381.

MUSIC-Epicentro (rock).

Time 21.30

Place Tajamar. Peatonal Alameda 1921, Cdad. 4256165.

Thursday, August 11

DANCE-“Gracias por abrazarme”. Flamenco. Dir. Pablo Garay.

Time 22.00

Place Teatro Quintanilla.

Price $30 AR

“Argentinos por siempre (Argentineans Forever)” (Tango and Folklore).

Time 22.30

Place Tajamar. Peatonal Alameda 1921, Cdad. 4256165.

Friday, August 12

MUSIC-“Malevaje a dos pianos” (Tango)

Time 21.30

Place Tajamar. Peatonal Alameda 1921, Cdad. 4256165.

MUSIC- Playbacks (Piano Bar).

Time-00.00

Place Sebastián Bar

Saturday, August 13

CINEMA-Romeo y Julieta”. Dir. Franco Zeffirelli.

Time 19.00

Place Colegio de Arquitectos de Mendoza. Mitre 617, 1º Piso, Cdad.

Price Free

MUSIC-Tango. Guest Artists.

Time 21.30

Place Tajamar. Peatonal Alameda 1921, Cdad. 4256165.

MUSIC-Dúo Miremont-Darian

Time 23.30

Place Sebastián Bar.



Vinos y Tapas Night at the Park Hyatt

Tuesday, August 2nd, 2011

To be honest, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect about the Vinos y Tapas at The Vines Bar and Vinoteca at the Park Hyatt. It can be  intimidating enough mingling at social events without factoring in the language barrier.

HOWEVER, last Thursday night was quite a pleasant surprise. My boyfriend and I walked in fashionably late at 8:15 (yes, very early by Argentine standards) and grabbed a table strategically situated equidistant between the kitchen and the bar. If I had arrived slightly earlier, I would’ve tried to snag the couch (I love how Argentina has incorporated the sofa into the bar atmosphere) and if it were slightly warmer, the beautifully lit outside patio.

To dispel any misconceptions you might have, let me give you my take on the event.

1. The event is classy, but no cocktail attire required. I know that especially when I’m traveling, clothing choices are limited, but don’t miss the event just because you didn’t bring your heels. Jeans and a nice top will suffice.

2. There’s a mix of people from all different countries and all different backgrounds–everyone from expats who’ve lived in Mendoza for years to backpackers just passing through so no need to feel self-conscious if you don’t speak much Spanish. 3. The atmosphere is very relaxed. If you feel like mingling with other people, there are plenty of people around at the bar or outside ready to swap stories. If you’ve had a long day and just feel like relaxing with your glass of wine and tapas, that’s fine too.  4. And finally, tapas can mean many things. In the case of the Park Hyatt, it means a variety of delicious and hearty tapas being served by waiters without end. Be sure not to make dinner plans for afterwards as you will definitely be full. Waiters will serve you to your heart’s content.

To give you an idea of the menu:

-2 glasses of wine from Bodega Catena Zapata

-Mushroom and chicken quesadillas

-Lentil soup

-Veal brochette

-Cheese and apricot on toasted bread

-Parmesan cheese biscuits

I left at 10 p.m. since I was leaving for Peru the next day, but the waiters were still circulating and guests were still happily chatting, eating and drinking at their leisure. A great idea and value (only 55 pesos) for your Thursday night!



Birthdays in Mendoza

Saturday, July 30th, 2011

Celebrating birthdays in Mendoza can be challenging to organize. First of all because the Mendocinos are soooo laid back that it is impossible to get an rsvp soon enough to plan the menu for the big day. Therefore sometimes you end up with more guests than
you thought and one of your brothers will run to get more food and drinks. The typical birthday in Mendoza, when you are in your twenties, is celebrated in a family house where friends, family and friends of friends are invited. So, the normal and easiest menu
at a birthday party comprises empanadas and pizza, or empanadas and “sanguchitos de peceto” (eye round beef sandwiches) served with the usual ingredients that are: lettuce, tomatoes, onions, mayonnaise (yes, argentines love mayonnaise in their sandwiches,
like gringos like pickles, ick to both of them), avocados, etc.

But as time goes by and people add more candles to the birthday cake, the menu changes and gets more sophisticated. The other thing that also changes is that you only invite your best friends, the people that you want to be with on that special day. Some years you through a party, others you go out to a fancy restaurant, and some day you cook for your friends.

Yesterday, it was my dear friend Emily`s birthday and she, thank god, decided to cook an Italian meal for a few friends, including me. Since almost 60% of the Argentine population is of Italian origin, it wasn’t at all difficult to find the necessary ingredients.
Mendoza offers the best produce to cook Italian; you only need imagination and much love to cook them. And, as strange as it may sound, there are not many good Italian restaurants in the city. Anyway, I must say, I was very impressed by the simplicity with
which Ale (another friend) decorated the loft; it looked like a real trattoria in Tuscany. Elegance is the word that comes first to my mind. We started with a nice platter of cheese, salami and prosciutto, served with a nice Pinot from Napa. Shhh!!! I know, but
the Italian wine went with the main course; it is hard to find imported wine in Mendoza.

Finally, the main course, the so expected Lasagna was ready. It was made with fresh pasta, spinach, good cheese, Bolognese (cooked two days in advance, yums!!) and béchamel sauce. It was absolutely flawless, like an explosion of perfectly balanced
flavors in your mouth. It makes me crave for the leftovers while I write these lines. We all sat down in different tables arranged throughout the loft with candle lights to enjoy Emily´s creation with, yes, the Italian wine, Ruffino, I think it was Chianti. By the end, to add some “azúcar” to the night, we had a panacotta served with fresh strawberries and basil (I added some fresh ground pepper which it paired very well), and a tiramisu.

A memorable night with good friends, great food and incredible wines that will remain in my senses for a long time.



Julia Bermejo Hilger is a trained chef currently getting her degree in English translation. You can often find her at The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room where she can educate her with her vast knowledge of the Mendoza wine region and anecdotes of the personalities that lie within.



Mendoza Restaurant Profile: Patrona Comidas y Vinos

Thursday, July 28th, 2011

 

La Patrona is a cozy, inconspicuous space on the corner of 9 de Julio and Colon where you can get excellent Argentine fare at an affordable price. It’s hidden hole-in-the-wall location and Argentine clientele gives it a less touristy vibe than many of the key players on Mendoza’s main drag, Aristedes. However, not to say that it doesn’t have “buena onda,” or good atmosphere. The walls are decorated with a variety of intriguing paintings, quotations, and photos, which they change frequently so every time you go, there’s something new to look at while you wait for your meal.

 La Patrona is known for its open-faced sandwiches. Served on homemade bread, they have several great vegetarian options, such as the bell pepper and honey Wanna I, in addition to chicken and prosciutto sandwiches. However, their most unique sandwich choice is the Violeta I “gland sandwich,” shown below.

If you’ve been overwhelmed with the standard Argentine parilla of cow, cow and more cow and need a short break, their twist on the parrilla allows you to taste other local meats, including goat (chivo), rabbit (conejo), and lamb (cordero),  and of course, some cow. Great to split between a couple.

Finally, try to make reservations before stopping in, especially at night on the weekends. If you don’t make reservations, it doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll have to wait, but because the restaurant only has about 14 tables, you might have to wait a while for someone to get up, especially since Argentine culture encourages relaxing and enjoying the meal for several hours. Servers are very kind and helpful, and the menu has English translations.

Patrona: 9 de Julio 656. Reservas 0261 4291057; 0261 154690282; Facebook: Patrona Mendoza



Weekend Getaway to Malargüe

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

 I wanted to make a weekend getaway to Malargüe to do basically one thing: eat chivo (goat). Supposedly, they have the best in the region, perhaps even in the country. However, my housemates and I made a grievous error when heading out on the 6:30 Catamarca bus to Malargüe: we had no plans for transportation outside our round-trip bus fare. It takes about six and a half hours by bus to get to Malargüe and getting there is no issue. Yet, there is little to nothing to do within the city—all of the attractions are at least 12 km away, most MUCH farther. So after visiting the tourist office and realizing there really were no public transportation options, we made a plan b.

Our next option was an organized outing. Karen Travel on the main drag (San Martin street, of course) was very friendly and informative and only 200 meters away from the tourist office. However, all of the day trips had obviously already left and for the trip the next day, it would be 200 pesos to go see La Caverna de la Bruja (Witches’ Cave) and maybe Lake Llancanelo, weather permitting. However, for three of us, it would be 600 pesos, which is a good amount of money for young travellers, and we figured we could rent a car for cheaper. Or so we thought.

Lastly, we investigated car rentals. By investigating, I mean we went to the only car rental business in town and waited until they opened. Malargüe takes their siesta very seriously so business hours were as follows: 9-12:30, break for siesta, 5:30-9. We waited and waited for it to open at 5:30 and by 6:15, we gave up. At this point, my roommates had basically given up and were opting to either take the 1:00 a.m. bus back to Mendoza after eating a lot of chivo for dinner, or taking the morning bus back after eating a lot of chivo from the night before.

We had a few more strokes of bad luck before our fate turned around: our hostel informed us the rental agency was closed because all of the cars were already rented until Tuesday. We also went to a few local places that had run out of chivo (!!!).

Finally, our luck really turned around when a local offered to show us around the next day. He dropped us off at La Cima to eat chivo (great restaurant: both the chivo stew and parrilla were delicious!) and promised to meet us the next morning at our hostel. We were skeptical after a day of such bad luck (or rather poor planning) so when he showed up the next day at 8:30 a.m., we knew our Saturday would be much better than our Friday, which it was.

Thus, lesson learned. Malargüe has breathtaking landscapes and beautiful chivo–just make sure you plan appropriately to take advantage of both!

El Pozo de Los Animos: On Route 222 you can see several attractions: Laguna de la Nina Encantada, Valle de Los Molles, Pozo de los Animos (below) and Valle Hermoso.

Las Leñas: ski resort with 14 lifts, 29 slopes, open for day and night ski, 10 miles to ski free, and 1,500 meters Terrain Park with jumps, bumps and rails. (Height above sea level: Base: 2,240 meters; Summit with access: 3,430 meters)

They even drink mate on the slopes!

Los Castillos de Pincheira: volcanic cliffs 27 km west of Malargüe where you can hike to a cave, cross a pedestrian suspension bridge and eat malargüino goat at the local restaurant. You pay 15 pesos to enter, place your chivo order at the restaurant and go hiking for an hour to return just in time for fresh chivo, all you can eat. Absolutely delicious (note: Our Malargüino friend informed us it is acceptable to eat chivo ribs with your hands)

 

Other sites to check out near Malargue:

The Manqui Malal cascade, The Payunia Natural Reserve, Malacara volcano, Laguna Llancanelo, Caverna de las Brujas, hot springs, golf course and food route (goat and trout road). More information available at www.malargueamatur.com.ar 

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both. A recent college graduate from UNC-Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.