The Vines of Mendoza | Blog

A QUIET WINERY BUT ACTIVE WINES

Thursday, June 30th, 2011

The harvest is finished, all the wines completed their alcoholic fermentation and were pressed, and now are all safely in their barrels. It seems to be a quiet time at the winery, however, our wines are very active…they are going through MALO LACTIC FERMENTATION, or “MLF”, or “malo” in winery terms.

What is a malolactic fermentation and how does it affect a wine?

MLF normally occurs after the primary fermentation has been completed, when the grape sugars have been converted by yeast into alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2). Lactic acid bacteria, Oenococcus oeni, (and some other species of Lactobacillus and Pediococcus) are responsible for this conversion. The major function of these bacteria is to convert one of the main wine acids,(there are two main acids and many minor ones found in grapes),L-malic acid, to another type – L-lactic acid. During this conversionCO2 is produced, so that’s why it’s called “fermentation”!

Most red wines that undergo a malolactic fermentation are improved by it, however wines that rely on a higher acidity level to show their full potential, such as most Argentine whites, would never benefit from it. Torrontés, Sauvignon Blancs, or similar younger varietals need the crispness in the acidity and youthful freshness to come through.

Lactic acid bacterial growth is inhibited by cooler temperatures, as well as the addition of sulfur dioxide (SO2) – an anti-bacterial agent. Winemakers are able to stop the onset of MLF, and can therefore control the style of wine being made by maintaining SO2 levels and lowering the wine temperature throughout the entire winemaking process.

The wines that benefit from MLF tend to be fuller-bodied, dry whites, such as Chardonnay, and most  medium- to full-bodied reds. It is these heavier wines that need to be somewhat softened to ensure an attractive lower acid to fruit balance.

In our winery, Pablo Martorell, our winemaker, decided to have a partial malo-lactic fermentation in our Chardonnays and a non-malolactic fermentation in our Torrontes and Sauvignon Blancs. For our reds, however, all wines are undergoing this secondary, but very important, fermentation. And here is an interesting fact about MLF – in Argentina one of the most important lactic bacteria – the Oenococcus oeni – is in very high concentration (98%), and it is not necessary to inoculate to make MLF start, our wines start this fermentation spontaneously!

Putting a wine through a malo, when in tank or barrel, is encouraged during the winemaking process as it will be less likely to repeat the process when it is in the bottle. If a wine unintentionally undergoes MLF when in bottle, it can be disastrous to the consumer. Apart from the wine losing its fruit integrity, it will appear to still be fermenting, as CO2 will be produced and an unpleasant lactic aroma would be detected.

How does Malolactic fermentation affect taste?

Considering that MLF enhances the body and flavor of the wine, it produced wines with greater palate softness and roundness. Most winemakers believe that there is much better integration of fruit and oak if MLF occurs while the wine is in barrel. This fuller mouthfeel is, for most people, more pleasing to the palate.

It has been noted that malic acid resembles the taste of green apples, (malic comes from the Latin word for apple, malum). An appley taste is often found in wine descriptions. In contrast, lactic acid is prominent in milk and is much more rich in taste, more like full-fat butter (lactic is derived from the Latin word for milk, lac).

The mouthfeel of malic acid can be described as “hard and metallic” against the “softness” of the lactic acid. MLF is a natural de-acidification and softening of the wine’s palate.

MLF is a natural way of softening wine and making it much more acceptable to the palate and easier to drink!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4730535



For the Love of Terroir

Thursday, April 21st, 2011

I recently hosted a tasting of Malbecs from different terroirs for local industry wine nerds. Of course everyone knows that Mendoza is the region in Argentina for Malbec but we wanted to explore how Malbecs varied region to region within Mendoza as well as check out Malbecs from the two other main Argentine regions, Salta and Patagonia. What we found was terroir- the wines changed with their geographical locations.

Coming from the French word for “land”, terroir can best be described as the particular geography, geology, and climate of an area that informs the finished product.  With advanced technology and modern winemaking techniques, terroir can often be covered up or deemphasized, but these particular wines were coming from regions so different that the wines had no choice but to show their origin to some extent. The tasting covered Mendoza’s three main regions: Maipu, Lujan, and Uco Valley, as well as wines from Cafayate, Salta and Rio Negro, Patagonia. We tasted in order from lowest to highest altitude.

The lowest altitude vines in Argentina also lie in one of the worlds most southernly wine regions- that of Patagonia. Here, Rio Negro and Neuquen are the main wine areas, home to a mere thirty some wineries on the cold, windy terrain. Pinot Noir and Semillon are the specialties here but some interesting Malbecs are also being produced. From this region we tasted the 2007 Humberto Canale Estate Malbec, a light bodied, markedly spicy, smoky Malbec with a timid fruit expression.  Cool climates tend to produce leaner wines, and this was one of the leanest Malbecs I’ve ever tasted.

Next up were Malbecs from Maipu (2008 Dona Silvina) and Lujan de Cuyo (2010 Zuccardi barrel sample).  These grapes are grown between 800-950 meters above sea level in higher, warmer, dry areas. From these regions, Malbec grapes tend to ripen more quickly and are more likely to display riper fruit characteristics and more leather or cooked fruit notes. While the Dona Silvina showed a notable amount of mature fruit and leather notes, the Zuccardi barrel sample from a slightly higher altitude showed more concentrated ripe fruits with red plum and hints of red flower.

Uco Valley came through with terroir typicity in the just-released 2009 Altos Las Hormigas Terroir Malbec.  At about 1200 meters high, Uco Valley tends to produce Malbecs of great concentration with marked violet aromas and fresh fruit characteristics.  The high altitude means greater sun exposure, leading to developed fruit flavors. It also means low nighttime temperatures, which allow the grapes to rest and develop acidity which helps with structure. These wines are often described as “muscular” with sweet fruit up front and firm tannins on the finish. Altos from Vista Flores displays a deep ruby color with marked violet aromas and fresh cherry on the nose. Rich and bursting with fresh fruit on the palate, this young wine’s tannins are still aggressive, but will mellow with age.

Cafayate high-altitude vineyards

We finished with the 2009 Coquena from San Pedro de Yacochuya out of Cafayate, Salta, home to the highest vineyards in the world. These grapes are grown at 1700 meters above sea level and thus show similar levels of concentration to the Uco Valley grapes. However, instead of pronounced violet aromas, the Saltanean Malbec shows pronounced green and black pepper aromas with plenty of sweet dark fruit on the nose as well.  With dry tannins and a rich mouthfeel, there are more savory notes in this Malbec than any of the others. I couldn’t help but start thinking about pairings.. venison with thyme and sweet potato?

Overall it was an interesting look into how vastly Argentine Malbec can vary from region to region. I am personally most impressed with the Malbecs coming out of the high altitude regions of Uco Valley and Cafayate.  They show strength and concentration with plenty of fruit but ample acidity to balance. As Argentine wines become more well known, look for these sub-regions to start showing up more on bottles. Labels that used to say “Mendoza” will start reading “Uco Valley” or “Agrelo”.  The good news is that the differences in terroir will become more noticeable the more wine you drink!



The Magic of Domaine St. Diego

Saturday, April 16th, 2011

I admit I am in love with visiting wineries. It is probably my number one preferred recreational activity next to tasting and yes, drinking wines.  But after almost four months of winery touring in Mendoza, one does start to get a bit bored with staring at stainless steel tanks listening to guides give slightly different versions of the same speech over and over again. But a recent visit to Domaine St. Diego served as a refreshing reminder of why I love wine and the people who make it. A truly unique winery experience in Mendoza.

Domaine St. Diego is an ultra boutique winery located in the Lunlunta Valley in Maipu, Mendoza. Headed by famed Argentine winemaker Angel Mendoza, this winery started as a family project about twenty years ago and continues to produce wines of very small production that are only available for purchase at the winery. Angel’s daughter, Maria Laura Mendoza guides the tour which focuses exclusively on the vineyards. Mendoza believes that wine should not be made in the winery, but grown in the vineyard.

The sheer amount of information that I absorbed and scribbled hurriedly in my notebook I do not have space to share with you here. Having grown up in the winery, surrounded by vines and wine, Maria Laura is like a walking encyclopedia on vineyard maintenance and “wine growing”.  We began with a short lesson on tasting Malbec grapes to determine ripeness. What’s the trick? First separate the pulp from the skin, then the seed from the pulp, then chew on the seed, then the skin. If the seed separates easily from the pulp, is crunchy when you chew it, and the skin takes more than five chews before it becomes tannic and green in your mouth, you’ve got yourself a ripe Malbec grape ready for picking. Cool, huh?

Along with Malbec, Cabernet, and Chardonnay in the vineyard, the Mendozas have a few vines of the uncommon grape, Apirant Bouschet, planted. Easy to spot for it’s brightly colored leaves with deep crimson veins, this varietal has blood red pulp and is used to concentrate color in the wines. With some of the only hillside vineyards I’ve seen in Mendoza, the estate lies in a protected valley with hills to one side and mountains to the other. This means that they rarely face hail or frost problems, and the hillside vineyards benefit from all-day sun exposure. It’s these sun-saturated grapes go into Mendoza’s Paradigma, an oaked blend that shows that a wine doesn’t have to spend time in the barrel to have concentration or great ageing potential.

Speckled throughout the vines are about 300 olive trees, producing four different varieties. In this photo Maria Laura shows us the difference between Manzanilla and Arauco olives. These seventy year old trees share the land well with the vines, having more shallow root systems that do not compete with the vines for water. Some of the grapes grow in the shade of these trees, and as a result are less ripe and higher acid. Mendoza uses these for the house sparkling wine, Brut Xero, which is impressively produced on site in a traditional variation of the Champenoise Method (AND can be found for sipping in the Vines tasting room!).

After the fantastic tour we returned to the family house to taste the wines and olive oil.  More magic. The olive oil has intensely grassy aromas, with plenty of fruit on the palate and big spice on the finish.  True to the nature of Arauco, it is full bodied and bold in flavor, lovely with the rosemary bread that accompanied. Named Elea, after Mendoza’s granddaughter, the sparkling Malbec rose was full of wild strawberry on the nose and pleasantly refreshing with good acid on the palate. Next, the unoaked 2008 Paradigma, a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet was fresh yet concentrated, with ripe plum and rose aromas, herb, red pepper and juicy red fruit in the mouth.  Refreshingly well balanced, this is a unique wine for Argentina.  Finally, the 2006 Pura Sangre Malbec/Cabernet blend spends two years in the tank, two years in mostly second use French oak, and one year in the bottle. With seductive vanilla, clove, and black cherry jam on the nose, the wine is round and rich on the palate with a wonderful pepper and toast finish. The best part, you can take home the blends for fifty pesos a bottle, the rose and olive oil for a cool thirty pesos.

A one-of-a-kind winery in Mendoza, Domaine St. Diego offers a memorable experience and wines with character. Don’t miss this one next time you’re out tasting in Mendoza!

Domaine St. Diego

F. Villanueva 3821

Lunlunta, Maipu, Mendoza

(0261) 4395557

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



Behind the Vines – April 2011

Friday, April 15th, 2011

Last Wednesday, just before dawn we began harvesting our 2011 Malbec! Our harvest began a few weeks ago with our Sauvignon Blanc, followed by Chardonnay, Torrontes, Tempranillo and Merlot. In total, we will harvest 280,000 kilos of grapes — 150,000 of which will be Malbec. To maximize quality, we only have a short window to harvest the Malbec, so we will be crushing grapes nearly 24 hours a day for the next couple of weeks.

The quality of the fruit is outstanding. Due to cooler weather during the growing season, we are harvesting a bit later than normally but that means that the grapes are enjoying warm days and quite cool nights, which intensifies concentration. It continues to look like 2011 will be a spectacular harvest in Mendoza.

We have expanded the winery and now have nearly 100 fermentation tanks that we are using to make over 120 wines with 93 Private Vineyard Estate owners. Santiago Achaval, Pablo Martorell and Mariana Onofri are just about living at the winery overseeing the entire process. They are being helped by several of our owners that are spending 2 to 8 weeks in Mendoza participating in The Vines Cellar Rats program, learning about every aspect of the winemaking (and cleaning quite a few tanks a long the way). In addition to the Cellar Rats, we have over 100 staff and seasonal workers picking and sorting grapes. This year, we will make approximately 170,000 bottles of wine.

2010 BLENDING SESSIONS – WHERE POETRY AND SCIENCE MEET
Several of our Private Vineyard Estate owners have visited us in Mendoza over the past several months to create the final blends for their 2010 wines. Mariana, our Wine Director, worked with each owner to create the perfect blend for each of their wines, which vary according to wine style and personal preference. Most people used Malbec as a base for the blend and then added small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. In just a few short months, after approximately 12 months in new French oak barrels, these wines will be bottled, labeled and shipped to the homes of our owners for celebrations and offered up for toasts all around the world.

Below are just a few of the labels we have created with our vineyard owners.

THE VINES RESORT AND SPA
In late February we broke ground on The Vines Resort & Spa and plan to open in September, 2012. The development team includes our partners Noel & Terry Neelands, architects Bormida & Yanzon, interior designer Adriana Hoyos and landscape architect Eduardo Vera.

If you would like more information about residential purchase opportunities at the resort, please email resort@vinesofmendoza.com.

PRIVATE VINEYARD ESTATES – THE FINAL COUNTDOWN
Our first vineyards were planted in 2007 and at the time, the idea of having 100 owners and planting the entire property seemed like a distant dream. Today, with 93 owners from all over the world we have achieved that dream and only seven Private Vineyard Estates remain. Click to see current site plan. If you would like information on how you could own one of these final Private Vineyard Estates, please contact michael@vinesofmendoza.com


To keep up to date with all our harvest and winemaking activities, please join our facebook group http://www.facebook.com/vinesofmendoza or follow us throughout the days on twitter @vinesofmendoza, @michaelhevans, and @pgimenezriili.

Saludos!

Michael Evans & Pablo Gimenez Riili
Co-Founders



How to tell what’s IN the bottle by what’s ON the bottle

Sunday, April 10th, 2011

Winemaker Carmelo Patti is extremely proud of his self-designed label.  Visit the winery and he will personally point out to you the details that he includes to make his label distinct: the month of bottling (March 2008) and exactly the number of bottles produced (18,300).  Carmelo is thorough with his label design, and he is among many Argentine producers who use the bottle presentation to convey as much as they can about the juice inside.  With more than 800 wineries in Mendoza alone, picking out a wine at a shop or restaurant can mean shopping by the label, which can be helpful, entertaining, or just downright confusing.

With all of the details that local wineries like to include on their labels, you might feel like you need a sommelier just to translate the outside of the bottle, to understand better what you’re getting into before even getting the cork out. Where here I am! And here are some tips for deciphering the Argentine wine label.

Vino Tinto/Vino Blanco

Generally, red wine/white wine. If a varietal name is not found elsewhere on the bottle, this is probably a blend of grapes. Though traditionally used to describe generic table wines, a number of high-end red blends are marked as “Vino Tinto” today.

Cosecha vs Bottling Date

FYI- Cosecha = harvest. Carmelo’s bottle says “Cosecha 2006″, meaning that the grapes for this wine were all picked in 2006. Meanwhile, the wine was bottled in March of 2008.  This means the wine spent roughly two years ageing in tanks and oak barrels. This is an aged wine before it even hits the market. The tannins will be softer and more integrated, and more “secondary” flavor characteristics (like dried fruit and flowers) will be showing.

A note on vintages:

Most Argentine wines are made to be consumed young! Don’t be scared to buy that 2008 Malbec because most likely it’s fresh, fruity, and drinking nicely. Most 2010 whites are also ready to drink now. In high-end blends, look for more bottle age. Because of beautiful weather, irrigation, and few pest problems, it’s tough to have a bad wine year for Argentina. The best vintages include 1999, 2003, 2005, and 2007.

Region

Local wine producers vary in how they describe where their grapes are coming from. While some simply state “Mendoza, Argentina” on the label, others include a more specific region of Mendoza (Lujan de Cujo), sub-region (Alto Agrelo) or specific vineyard (Finca Remonta).  This Terrazas label mentions the general region (Mendoza) and the sub-region (Las Compuertas), as well as stating “single vineyard”, which means that all of the grapes for this wine come from one vineyard. There are only two D.O.C. (Denominacion de Origen Controlado) wine regions in Argentina- the Lujan de Cujo and San Rafael. When a label reads D.O.C. it ensures that the grapes meet quality standards for that region and that the wine has been in barrel at least eight months, in bottle at least one year.

Altitude

Argentina”s claim to fame! Home to the highest altitude vineyards in the world (Cafayate, Salta), Argentina has had great success growing grapes in regions 980-3000 meters above sea level.  Because of this, you will almost always find some mention of altitude on a local label.  What does it mean? Basically, lower altitude vines will be more productive and make juicier, more fruit-forward wines while higher altitude vines produce wines with more aromas, concentration, and acidity.

Reserve

Officially, for an Argentine producer to put “reserve” on a bottle of red wine, the wine must be aged one year in barrels and two years for “grand reserve”.  For whites it is half of that- six months for reserve and one year for grand reserve. However it should be noted that this law is still in the process of being implemented, and many wineries are still using the word reserve as a brand or marketing tool. On this Andeluna bottle they include Tupungato, which is a sub-region of the Uco Valley, which is the most southerly region of Mendoza and they note that the wine is estate produced and bottled, meaning that the wine is made at Andeluna’s estate and not sent out for vinification or bottling. Basically, they have a facility where they can do it all.

Alcohol

Yep, these wines are big.  Argentine reds can be anywhere from 13.5-16.5% abv.  Don’t let the percentages on the label scare you- the alcohol can be very well integrated, adding body and sweetness. What’s more, remember that local producers have .5% wiggle room when printing labels, so 14.5% can also mean 14% or 15%.

And now that I’ve said all that, don’t forget that it’s what’s inside the bottle that really counts!

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



Harvest Update: Here Comes the Malbec!

Wednesday, April 6th, 2011

Merlot macerating
The 2011 vintage has been a steady, controlled process thus far at The Vines of Mendoza Private Vineyard Estates (PVE).

Over the last month and a half we have harvested, in order, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Torrontés, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo and Merlot. This fruit equates to approximately 15% of our planted vines.

Today, however, we are functioning at full force as the Malbec harvest commences. Malbec is our most abundant grape varietal, planted in 60% of our vineyards. Further to that all of these grapes will need to be collected, sorted, crushed and inoculated in just one week.

The remainder of our fruit, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon is on schedule to be harvested in the third and fourth weeks of April. This makes up the remainder of our fruit, with the exception of a few plots of less common varietals that equate to less than 1% of our total plantings.

This is what we, the staff and PVE owners at The Vines of Mendoza, have been waiting for all year. Bring it on, Malbec!
A clean winery is a happy winery



The Sommelier Scoop

Wednesday, March 30th, 2011

This weekend Mendoza is host to the Masters of Food and Wine, a high-profile event for world-class sommeliers and chefs to get together and strut their stuff over three days of wine tasting, high-end dining, and fancy soirees.  Sound like fun?  Always wondered what it would take to be in their shoes?

With wine becoming more accessible and popular worldwide, the need for the well-educated sommelier is rising.  For those who already have a passion for wine, the sommelier track is a fun and challenging venture, turning something you love into a career. There are several excellent options for the budding sommelier:

The Court of Master Sommeliers

My personal choice! The Court has an extremely good reputation for training the best.  With four levels of testing (Introductory, Certified, Advanced, and Master), this program requires a great deal of self-study and discipline and is perfect for those already working in the industry, tasting wines regularly.  While I found the exams to be incredibly challenging and nerve-racking, passing the Certified exam has been one of my proudest moments professionally. Master Sommelier, the highest level of certification with the Court, is also the highest credential that any sommelier can achieve in the wine world.

The International Sommelier Guild

More classroom-oriented, the ISG brings together renowned wine educators, restaurateurs, and merchants to teach a collection of courses.  Wine Funtamendals I and II is a Court-style option, with short classes followed by intensive testing. The Sommelier Diploma Program is a six-month course covering every aspect of the wine industry with a focus on essay-writing.

The Wine and Spirit Education Trust

Based in London, the WSET offers a variety of courses in 50 countries worldwide and five different levels of study. More industry focused, the great thing about WSET is that you can also take specific courses like distilling and marketing of spirits. The Honours Diploma involves an extensive independent study project concluding in a formal presentation.

Travel

Though quality classroom experience and comprehensive testing is a big part of becoming an amazing sommelier, hands-on experience is indispensable.  A good sommelier can compare Chilean Cabernet to Napa Cabernet to Bordeaux not because they’ve studied the characteristics of each in a textbook, but because they’ve tasted the wines, and hopefully traveled to the regions.  I’m here in Mendoza because this is the best way I know to learn about Argentine wines- to taste, visit vineyards, talk winemakers, and learn about the food and the local palate first-hand.

Internships

Getting into the winery is a great way to learn about harvest and production. During busy times of the year, many wineries take in interns or apprentices to help with the workload. Spending a season as a “cellar rat” can do loads to increase your understanding of the winemaking process and your appreciation for all of the hard, dirty work that goes into producing great wines.

Service, list management, and sales skills all factor into the job as well.  Though it may seem like a cushy, glamorous career, it takes a lot of work and study to get to the top. But if you can get there, oh the life! Food, wine, travel, and maybe even a bit of fame. Charlie Artuaola, an Uruguayan sommelier who founded the Masters of Food and Wine event in Mendoza, has received so much praise for his palate that he’s now starring in a movie based on his own life with renowned winemaking consultant, Michel Rolland.  If that’s not a super-star sommelier, I don’t know what is!

About the author: Cara De Lavallade is a Level II Court of Masters Sommelier from Seattle, Washington. Temporarily relocated to Mendoza, she is smelling and tasting all she can to gain a better understanding of the local juice.  Look for her wine reviews, bodega visits, and other winey musings on The Vines of Mendoza blog this spring.



Cabernets Compared

Wednesday, March 30th, 2011

Earlier this week I helped myself to three of the Cabernet Sauvignons being served at The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room. My objective was to discover what sets ‘Cab’ in Mendoza apart from ‘Cab’ grown elsewhere in the world.

Understanding Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is frequently used in wine blends for its structure; high acid and high tannin. These two elements decline as wine ages in the bottle therefore high quantities of both are crucial for long aging wines. Top Cabernets have characteristics of red current, black berries, cigar box, pencil shavings, mint or eucalyptus, tobacco, coffee, chocolate, vanilla, cedar, etc.

Regions of the world producing some of the most highly acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon include Médoc in Bordeaux, France, Tuscany, Italy, the state of California in the USA, Coonawarra in Australia, and Chile.

A common challenge for ‘Cab’ producers is getting the fruit perfectly ripe. Under ripe fruit translates to the wine, without fail, in the form of sappy, green pepper aromas; which are not well received in wine circles.

Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon

Comparatively Mendoza Cabernets are generally free of under ripe characteristics and are ready to drink sooner than competing Cabernets.

Of the three Mendoza Cabernets I tasted, there were no signs of under ripe fruit. The acidity of great Cabernet was present in the wines, but they lacked the firmness of tannin required for long aging. Instead, the tannins were velvety and easy to drink.

La Flor Pulenta Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
The La Flor range of wines consists of specially selected fruit from young vines. The colour was crimson with brick hues. The nose displayed red cherry, musk, vanilla, dry leaves, and a touch of fennel. On the palate was bright acidity, red fruit and a mineral, medium length finish.

The Clos de Chacras Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
The colour is crimson fading to ruby. It too had aromas of red cherries and musk. However, this wine was comparatively more floral, and had notes of pepper, and pencil lead. On the palate it had good acid, firm tannins and both fresh and jammed raspberries.

Atamisque Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Grapes are sourced from 50 year old vines located 1100 meters above sea level. The colour is deep crimson with pink tears. Red fruit and black berries met my nose along with pencil shavings, coffee, vanilla and graphite. The mouth-feel was round with a medium length, mineral rich finish.

The Verdict

Personally, I enjoyed the intensity of Atamisque best. Clos de Chacras has serious structure and thus, the best aging potential. The La Flor was the underdog of the group due to the youth of the vines, but it shows promising complexity. Soon enough these vines will be producing impressive fruit for the top wines of Pulenta Estate.

Be sure to pick up a bottle of Mondoza Cabernet Sauvignon and judge for yourself. The above wines are available through The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room, Vinoteca at the Park Hyatt Mendoza, or The Vines on-line Wine Shop.

About the author: Lindsay Trivers is a Sommelier at The Vines of Mendoza, in the most recent chapter of her world-wide wine discovery tour. She has worked extensively throughout Canada, New Zealand and Australia, developing her palate and working vintages along the way. While here, in Mendoza, She will be living and reporting on life at the bodega (winery), plus happenings from the tasting room and cellar. Stay tuned to The Vines of Mendoza Blog for vintage updates, wine tips and reviews, to find out how our guests are keeping busy, and much, much more.



Okay, okay. Sulfites are not that interesting, but people want answers!

Monday, March 28th, 2011

Winemakers Night at The Vines of Mendoza always offers attendees insight into the daily considerations of oenologists. One theme that consistently arises during these discussions is the consumer’s confusion over the use of sulfur in wine.

How is sulfur used in wine?

Sulfur is a natural bi-product of fermentation; therefore, even organic wines contain low levels. Further to that, it is a near impossibility to make a stable wine without additional sulfites, due to their anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties.

When wine is slowly exposed to oxygen, like through a properly sealed cork, it develops complex flavors and aromas. However, too much oxygen too soon can destroy a wine’s fruity qualities, cause browning and color loss, or can spoil a wine altogether. Sulfur is added to help prevent these issues and to extend the life of the wine; particularly white wines which don’t contain the natural preservatives found in red wine tannins.

The anti-microbial properties of sulfur are important for controlling harmful bacteria growth. Listed below are ways that sulfur is used throughout the vinification process.

· In the vineyard:
· Sulfur is often sprayed in the vineyard in order to stop grape rot that can be caused by humidity or pests

· In the winery:
· Before starting a controlled fermentation with cultivated yeast, sulfites are added to the grape juice to rid it of harmful bacteria and unwanted wild yeast
· Can be used to stop yeast activity (fermentation)
· Stabilizes wine following malolactic fermentation (a second fermentation that converts harsh malic acid into smooth lactic acid. The process is used to soften the way a wine feels in one’s mouth)
· Winery equipment sanitization, and to prevent microbial growth in the winery

· When bottling the wine:
Prevents microbial problems from developing when the wine is in bottle

Sulfur can cause problems in the winery if mismanaged. It could cease fermentations too early, contribute a rotten egg smell or cause color loss to finished wines.

FYI: Decanting an eggy smelling wine for ten minutes will evaporate the unpleasant odor.

Is there danger in consuming sulfites?

As well as small traces in wine, sulfites are commonly used as food preservatives in foods like dried fruit, breakfast cereals and chocolate bars. This is concerning for some people as sulfites are allergens and can affect asthmatics adversely. Symptoms are rare but can include headaches, hives and cramps.

That being said, many people who attribute these symptoms to sulfur are actually suffering an allergic reaction to histamines found in red wines, largely due to the wood tannins derived during oak aging. White wines require more sulfites than red wines do. If red wine is what causes your headache, you are probably having a mild allergic reaction to oak tannins and not sulfur.

There’s no denying it. To drink wine is to drink (a small amount of) sulfites. If this concerns you, you can always try seeking out organic or biodynamic wines that may have a lesser level of sulfites. In my opinion, the benefits of sulfites in wine outweigh the cons. I love my wines fresh and lasting, sulfur ensures this along with a standard of quality in my wine that I have come to expect. Just keep an antihistamine on hand for those longer tasting sessions.

About the author: Lindsay Trivers is a Sommelier at The Vines of Mendoza, in the most recent chapter of her world-wide wine discovery tour. She has worked extensively throughout Canada, New Zealand and Australia, developing her palate and working vintages along the way. While here, in Mendoza, She will be living and reporting on life at the bodega (winery), plus happenings from the tasting room and cellar. Stay tuned to The Vines of Mendoza Blog for vintage updates, wine tips and reviews, to find out how our guests are keeping busy, and much, much more.



Biodynamic Argentina

Friday, March 25th, 2011

Focusing on the external market, Argentine wineries have begun putting more emphasis on their eco-friendly practices. Luckily, Argentina is blessed with incredibly dry, high altitude wine-growing regions where pesticides are rarely needed.  As many vineyards strive for USDA organic certification, others take it to the next level by putting biodynamic principals to use on their vines.  Here are a few answers to common questions about biodynamics in grape growing!

What is biodynamics?

A super-organic set of practices that are based on the idea of thinking about the farm as a self-contained living organism.  Like organic farms, biodynamic farms avoid the use of synthetic chemicals and focus on biological solutions to pest issues, but they take a more holistic approach to grape-growing.  Biodynamics expands on organic by considering that the ecosystem is not only the planet but the entire universe.

Where did it come from?

Biodynamics is a part of Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner’s wider theory of anthroposophy or “spiritual science”.  The farm, he theorized, functions in terms of “formative” forces.  The unbalance of these forces- related to the moon and stars- leads to problems in the vineyards, e.g. fungal growth, etc.  Steiner believed that the main failing of modern science was it’s fixation on analyzing physical effects, as opposed to investigating the underlying forces of these effects.

How does it work?

Biodynamics in viticulture rejects the use of any agrochemicals and relies on two main functions: the formation of specific “preparations” which are applied to the soil in various ways, and the timing of practices in the vineyard (planting, harvest, fertilizing) according to the lunar cycle and zodiac calendar- the “movements of the spheres.”  By these calendars, the viticulturist can determine what part of the vine to focus on and when.  You normally find a range of animals (cows, sheep, chickens) living on the farm that contribute to the production of nutrient-rich compost, as well as pest and weed control.

Cow horns?

One of the most heard-about practices of biodynamic viticulture is the cow-horn preparation.  A paste of ground quartz and rain water is put into a cow horn and buried at the autumn equinox, to be dug back up again six months later in the spring. This mixture is then diluted in water and sprayed on the vines as fertilizer in the springtime.

How can I tell if a wine is biodynamic?

One easy way is to check the label for the Demeter stamp. Demeter is the international organization that certifies biodynamic farms. Like organics, the process for certification is complicated and can take years to achieve, so many farms chose to employ certain practices without seeking certification. If an Argentine winery is using biodynamics, they will most likely state it somewhere on their label or website.

Who’s certified/practicing in Argentina?

Bodega Colome (Salta)- Practicing

Bodega Chacra (Patagonia)- Demeter certified

Bodega Kontriras (Mendoza)- Practicing

Alpamanta (Mendoza)- Practicing

Bodega Noemia (Patagonia)- Demeter certified

To read more about biodynamics in viticulture, check out this website….