For those in the northern hemisphere we hope your Christmas and New Year was filled with reindeer-patterned sweaters, a suitable binge on roast turkey and all the trimmings, and quality family time by the fireplace. Things down here in the Southern Cone are more than a little different – in Mendoza it is a pretty easy-going affair all about BBQs and lazing about the swimming pool. For me though, one of the most fun places to spend Christmas and New Year is in Montevideo, Uruguay.
Montevideo is probably one of the world’s most relaxed capital cities, which sadly most people skip off their travel plans because its relative safety. After all, organization and cleanliness are seen by some travelers as boring. But don’t believe the hype, because this city explodes in serious style over the holiday period.
Celebrations take a similar format on the 24th and 31st (the two more celebrated days here). At midday everyone (young, old and in the middle) gather in the main plaza by the Mercado del Puerto – usually before or after gorging on a mountain of meat in the indoor market – and bring with them a couple bottles of fizzy cider. On the 31st the lawyers of the city start the mayhem by throwing showers of torn paper documents from the year out of their office windows, and as horns blast and drums beat everyone becomes embroiled in what must be the biggest cider fight in the world.
It all begins a bit more civilized as you walk through the streets with people shaking the plastic bottles and spraying fizz into the air, or cheekily pouring cider down your back as you pass by, but as more cider gets thrown (and drunk) it gets more energetic and raucous, and only the brave and stupid remain for what soon becomes a plastic bottle fight. Some attempt to enjoy the carnival atmosphere but avoid getting wet by watching the spectacle from afar – on the terraces of the restaurants above, but never underestimate the reach of cheap sweet cider, no-one leaves the party dry. This is the time of year that Montevideans all let their hair down and if you are in the area, you can’t miss it.
After a shower and big dinner with family and friends, the grand finale of Montevideo’s celebrations takes place: the fireworks. At the strike of midnight a billion fireworks are set off – with everyone in the city throwing bangers and lighting fireworks and flames on every corner of every block. Don’t think about the health and safety hazards on this night… just stand back, toast with a glass of sparkling wine and watch the sky being set on multi-coloured fire! It only happens twice a year, and for me, Montevideo is the only place to see it.
Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza but taking advantage of cider throwing and Tannat in nearby countries too.
























