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Archive for July, 2011



Birthdays in Mendoza

Saturday, July 30th, 2011

Celebrating birthdays in Mendoza can be challenging to organize. First of all because the Mendocinos are soooo laid back that it is impossible to get an rsvp soon enough to plan the menu for the big day. Therefore sometimes you end up with more guests than
you thought and one of your brothers will run to get more food and drinks. The typical birthday in Mendoza, when you are in your twenties, is celebrated in a family house where friends, family and friends of friends are invited. So, the normal and easiest menu
at a birthday party comprises empanadas and pizza, or empanadas and “sanguchitos de peceto” (eye round beef sandwiches) served with the usual ingredients that are: lettuce, tomatoes, onions, mayonnaise (yes, argentines love mayonnaise in their sandwiches,
like gringos like pickles, ick to both of them), avocados, etc.

But as time goes by and people add more candles to the birthday cake, the menu changes and gets more sophisticated. The other thing that also changes is that you only invite your best friends, the people that you want to be with on that special day. Some years you through a party, others you go out to a fancy restaurant, and some day you cook for your friends.

Yesterday, it was my dear friend Emily`s birthday and she, thank god, decided to cook an Italian meal for a few friends, including me. Since almost 60% of the Argentine population is of Italian origin, it wasn’t at all difficult to find the necessary ingredients.
Mendoza offers the best produce to cook Italian; you only need imagination and much love to cook them. And, as strange as it may sound, there are not many good Italian restaurants in the city. Anyway, I must say, I was very impressed by the simplicity with
which Ale (another friend) decorated the loft; it looked like a real trattoria in Tuscany. Elegance is the word that comes first to my mind. We started with a nice platter of cheese, salami and prosciutto, served with a nice Pinot from Napa. Shhh!!! I know, but
the Italian wine went with the main course; it is hard to find imported wine in Mendoza.

Finally, the main course, the so expected Lasagna was ready. It was made with fresh pasta, spinach, good cheese, Bolognese (cooked two days in advance, yums!!) and béchamel sauce. It was absolutely flawless, like an explosion of perfectly balanced
flavors in your mouth. It makes me crave for the leftovers while I write these lines. We all sat down in different tables arranged throughout the loft with candle lights to enjoy Emily´s creation with, yes, the Italian wine, Ruffino, I think it was Chianti. By the end, to add some “azúcar” to the night, we had a panacotta served with fresh strawberries and basil (I added some fresh ground pepper which it paired very well), and a tiramisu.

A memorable night with good friends, great food and incredible wines that will remain in my senses for a long time.



 Julia Bermejo Hilger is a trained chef currently getting her degree in English translation. You can often find her at The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room where she can educate her with her vast knowledge of the Mendoza wine region and anecdotes of the personalities that lie within.

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Mendoza Restaurant Profile: Patrona Comidas y Vinos

Thursday, July 28th, 2011

 

La Patrona is a cozy, inconspicuous space on the corner of 9 de Julio and Colon where you can get excellent Argentine fare at an affordable price. It’s hidden hole-in-the-wall location and Argentine clientele gives it a less touristy vibe than many of the key players on Mendoza’s main drag, Aristedes. However, not to say that it doesn’t have “buena onda,” or good atmosphere. The walls are decorated with a variety of intriguing paintings, quotations, and photos, which they change frequently so every time you go, there’s something new to look at while you wait for your meal.

 La Patrona is known for its open-faced sandwiches. Served on homemade bread, they have several great vegetarian options, such as the bell pepper and honey Wanna I, in addition to chicken and prosciutto sandwiches. However, their most unique sandwich choice is the Violeta I “gland sandwich,” shown below.

If you’ve been overwhelmed with the standard Argentine parilla of cow, cow and more cow and need a short break, their twist on the parrilla allows you to taste other local meats, including goat (chivo), rabbit (conejo), and lamb (cordero),  and of course, some cow. Great to split between a couple.

Finally, try to make reservations before stopping in, especially at night on the weekends. If you don’t make reservations, it doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll have to wait, but because the restaurant only has about 14 tables, you might have to wait a while for someone to get up, especially since Argentine culture encourages relaxing and enjoying the meal for several hours. Servers are very kind and helpful, and the menu has English translations.

Patrona: 9 de Julio 656. Reservas 0261 4291057; 0261 154690282; Facebook: Patrona Mendoza

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Weekend Getaway to Malargüe

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

 I wanted to make a weekend getaway to Malargüe to do basically one thing: eat chivo (goat). Supposedly, they have the best in the region, perhaps even in the country. However, my housemates and I made a grievous error when heading out on the 6:30 Catamarca bus to Malargüe: we had no plans for transportation outside our round-trip bus fare. It takes about six and a half hours by bus to get to Malargüe and getting there is no issue. Yet, there is little to nothing to do within the city—all of the attractions are at least 12 km away, most MUCH farther. So after visiting the tourist office and realizing there really were no public transportation options, we made a plan b.

Our next option was an organized outing. Karen Travel on the main drag (San Martin street, of course) was very friendly and informative and only 200 meters away from the tourist office. However, all of the day trips had obviously already left and for the trip the next day, it would be 200 pesos to go see La Caverna de la Bruja (Witches’ Cave) and maybe Lake Llancanelo, weather permitting. However, for three of us, it would be 600 pesos, which is a good amount of money for young travellers, and we figured we could rent a car for cheaper. Or so we thought.

Lastly, we investigated car rentals. By investigating, I mean we went to the only car rental business in town and waited until they opened. Malargüe takes their siesta very seriously so business hours were as follows: 9-12:30, break for siesta, 5:30-9. We waited and waited for it to open at 5:30 and by 6:15, we gave up. At this point, my roommates had basically given up and were opting to either take the 1:00 a.m. bus back to Mendoza after eating a lot of chivo for dinner, or taking the morning bus back after eating a lot of chivo from the night before.

We had a few more strokes of bad luck before our fate turned around: our hostel informed us the rental agency was closed because all of the cars were already rented until Tuesday. We also went to a few local places that had run out of chivo (!!!).

Finally, our luck really turned around when a local offered to show us around the next day. He dropped us off at La Cima to eat chivo (great restaurant: both the chivo stew and parrilla were delicious!) and promised to meet us the next morning at our hostel. We were skeptical after a day of such bad luck (or rather poor planning) so when he showed up the next day at 8:30 a.m., we knew our Saturday would be much better than our Friday, which it was.

Thus, lesson learned. Malargüe has breathtaking landscapes and beautiful chivo–just make sure you plan appropriately to take advantage of both!

El Pozo de Los Animos: On Route 222 you can see several attractions: Laguna de la Nina Encantada, Valle de Los Molles, Pozo de los Animos (below) and Valle Hermoso.

Las Leñas: ski resort with 14 lifts, 29 slopes, open for day and night ski, 10 miles to ski free, and 1,500 meters Terrain Park with jumps, bumps and rails. (Height above sea level: Base: 2,240 meters; Summit with access: 3,430 meters)

They even drink mate on the slopes!

Los Castillos de Pincheira: volcanic cliffs 27 km west of Malargüe where you can hike to a cave, cross a pedestrian suspension bridge and eat malargüino goat at the local restaurant. You pay 15 pesos to enter, place your chivo order at the restaurant and go hiking for an hour to return just in time for fresh chivo, all you can eat. Absolutely delicious (note: Our Malargüino friend informed us it is acceptable to eat chivo ribs with your hands)

 

Other sites to check out near Malargue:

The Manqui Malal cascade, The Payunia Natural Reserve, Malacara volcano, Laguna Llancanelo, Caverna de las Brujas, hot springs, golf course and food route (goat and trout road). More information available at www.malargueamatur.com.ar 

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both. A recent college graduate from UNC-Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.

 

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Copa America in Mendoza

Wednesday, July 20th, 2011
 

My house mates and I decided to go to the Copa America Semi-finals on Wednesday night to see Venezuela play against Paraguay. It was actually the first soccer game I’ve ever gone to, despite the fact I lived in Sevilla, Spain for six months (shameful, I know) so I wasn’t sure what to expect or even how to go about getting tickets.

For this particular game, we knew Chileans would be trying to scalp their tickets since Chile didn’t make it to the semi-finals as they had hoped. We started walking to the stadium at 5:30 p.m. the day of the game and didn’t even make it a block before three people offered to sell us tickets. We bargained to pay half price (100 pesos) and as a bonus, our seller said he would give us a ride to the game as well.

However, to buy a ticket directly you can also go to Ticketek or to the stadium ticket office. Hint: Careful buying scalped tickets. Apparently, if you rip the corner of the ticket and it’s red, then it’s a real ticket.

For this particular game, it wasn’t important to arrive early.  In fact, it was very odd to be at the Copa America semi-final game and see the stadium half full, if that, and unfortunately, the game was pretty uneventful (no goals). However, the crowd of Chileans, who apparently were unable to sell their tickets, were quite entertaining. They broke out into spontaneous cheers for Chile, nevermind the fact that Chile wasn’t playing. There was also a heavyset man running around with the Chilean flag for the majority of the game. 

As you might expect, there were very few women in the crowd; it will probably be one of the only instances in which the men’s bathroom is more crowded than the women’s. As you might NOT expect, they only serve non-alcoholic beer at the stadiums. My boyfriend quickly canceled his order when he found out. The only food they serve is hot dogs and hamburgers and for drinks, coffee and soda. That said, I saw several people bring food in; I was very surprised that both at the stadium and at the movie theaters in Mendoza, you can bring your own food.

Finally, my last impression was that for whatever reason, penalty kicks are less tense to watch in person than on t.v. I usually can hardly watch them at my house, but at the stadium, it was no big deal. But that might have to do with the freezing temperatures. Overall, I would highly recommend going to any games in Mendoza if you have the chance.

What’s Going on in Mendoza?  Wednesday, July 20-Sunday, July 24

Photo of the Week by Brad Cooper

Photo of the Week by Brad Cooper

Wednesday, July 20: Dia del Amigo: Be sure to tell friends how much they mean to you!

Sports:

21:45-Copa America (in Mendoza!) Paraguay vs. Venezuela

Club & Bar Specials/Events:

20:00-Fiesta Copada at Tajamar to celebrate the Copa America & Dia del Amigo (DJ-Laureano Manson)

22:00-Fiesta Copada at Juan Sebastian bar (game on big screen; comedy show afterwards)

Thursday, July 21:

Vines of Mendoza Event

20:00-Vinos y Tapas at the Vines Bar & Vinoteca (55 pesos): Every Thursday night at the luxurious deck of The Vines Wine Bar & Vinoteca, we host a decadent vinos y tapas events. A local winery is showcased every week with unique and succulent pairings available as you mingle and enjoy the laid back Mendocino lifestyle.

Friday, July 22:

Music:

23:30-”Space Garage” in concert at La Mala (San Martin y Maipu), Natalio Faingold

 Saturday, July 23:

Arts:

20:00-Campeonato Mundial del Tango (Tango Championship Semi-finals)  at Club Mendoza de Regatas

10:30hs Hotel Alcor (Gral. Paz 86)  12:30hs Hotel Balbi (Av. Las Heras 340)- Dance and Music from La Municipalidad de la Ciudad de Mendoza: Rubén Giménez y Ballet Juvenil Municipal (folclore) y Antonio Rivero y Ballet Mayor Municipal (tango)

Sports:

16:00-Copa America: Peru vs ? (playing for third place) in La Plata

Sunday, July 24:

Arts:

20:30-Campeonato Mundial del Tango (Tango Championship) at Teatro Independencia

Sports:

16:00-Copa America Final: Uruguay vs. ? in Buenos Aires

For additional events, including those geared towards children, check out the monthly event guide La Guia. If you would like to submit a Photo of the Week or know of any interesting events coming up, please send an email to carolyn@vinesofmendoza.com.ar

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more        about both, as well as giving updates about local events.  A recent college graduate from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.

 

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Winemaker’s Night: Chacra from Rio Negro, Patagonia!

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

Learning the history about Bodega Chacra is like following the royal wedding. It’s historical, exclusive, but most of all, classy.

To start, the owner, Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, hails from one of the most esteemed winemaking families in Italy.  The family winery produces the stunning Sassacaia wines, a European wine that broke the mold of what world class wine is made of and the traditions that surround it. Click here to learn more about how Piero’s grandfather, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, went from making excellent wine for just his family to owning the only single winery DOC in Italy.

Secondly, Chacra only makes four different wines, three Pinot Noirs and one Merlot: Barda, a blend of their Pinot Noirs; Chacra Treinta y Dos and Chacra Cincuenta y Cinco, both Pinot Noirs; and finally, Mainque, the sole Merlot. Each of these bottles carries a price tag between 160 pesos (Barda) to more than 400 pesos. These high-end wines are so in-demand that Chacra lovers must pre-order to ensure the wines aren’t sold out.

Finally, although we did not meet Piero last night, you can tell by hearing how he runs his bodega and his philosophy about the wine, that he’s a classy guy. Read this excerpt from Laura Catena’s interview with Piero in An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina:

“Today at our winery in Chacra, we have a traditional artisanal approach to winemaking. We do pretty much everything by hand–we prune, harvest and de-stem by hand; we vinify without machinery or steel; and most of the time we decant by gravity. Chacra is not a conventional business; it’s a passion, a personal folly…Our goal is to keep producing single-vineyard biodynamic wines that are of consequence, as we believe that our terroir is capable of yielding wines that are unique in character.”

As an added bonus, next-door neighbor Bodega Noemia, which Chacra considers its “cousin” winery (which produces Malbec) is owned by the renowned Dutch winemaker Hans Vinding-Diers and Italian Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano.

We tasted a 2009 Barda and then compared a 2009 Chacra Cincuenta y Cinco to a 2010 Chacra Cincuenta y Cinco. Read Vines of Mendoza blogger Emily Camblin’s recent blog review on these wines and her visit to Bodega Chacra.

Carolyn is a newcomer to Mendoza and the wine industry and will be sharing her experiences as she learns more about both, as well as giving updates about local events.  A recent college graduate from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, she also teaches English at a local university.

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A Peek into the History of Argentine Wine – as Paul Hobbs Tells It

Friday, July 15th, 2011

Last Friday I had the pleasure of sharing a special dinner with Paul Hobbs, one of the best known American winemakers.  Paul owns, in partnership with two Argentine winemakers – Luis Barraud and Andrea Marchiori – the COBOS winery in Mendoza.

The Cobos wines were born in 1998, but Paul’s first encounter with Argentine wines was much earlier.  Paul was brought to Argentina by Nicolas Catena in the 1980s to make Chardonnay.  He came to Argentina during the time when production was huge, but Argentina was still an internationally unknown wine country.  Historically, Argentine winemakers were more interested in producing quantity rather than quality, with the country consuming all the wine it produced.

Paul remembers that the first winery he visited was La Esmeralda, owned by the Catena family, located in the east of Mendoza Province, a region that still concentrates in high production of grapes. His immediate impression of Argentine wines was not very inspiring.  “Those wines were horrible”, he says, “and they were supposed to be the best wines in Argentina!”  However, he continues, that when he visited the vineyards, the quality of the fruit surprised him – especially that of a small, berry-sized cluster which was extremely tasty. This grape was named Malbec or the French grape among local growers.

Paul says “there was a whole disconnect between the vineyards and the winery which created the problem in obtaining quality.”  Even though he was hired to make Chardonnay, he was given the freedom to experiment with other grapes, and so he did.  He could see the potential of the terroir, but there were some viticultural practices that need to be modified.  Most vineyards in Mendoza were trained in low trellis systems or parrales (pergolas), and were irrigated using the traditional system of furrows, or by flood. Paul says “I asked them just one thing: let’s water less so we can obtain a better concentration and therefore smaller berries, and please don’t water just before picking the grapes!”

Paul was also able to test the potential of the grapes by using new French barrels for aging, made by the Taraunsaud Tonnellerie, who wanted to enter the market and gave him 10 barrels to play with.  This was the beginning of Paul’s experimentation with the unknown Malbec grape, which really captivated him.

Of course he made the Chardonnay – Alamos Chardonnay – which became the first wine to be imported into the US by the Catena family.  But this was also the beginning of the unique grape that nowadays makes Catena wines so important: MALBEC.

The last wine to be poured at this wonderful dinner last Friday evening was a COBOS MALBEC 2009.  It was the perfect way of concluding that his first impression of the grape was absolutely correct: IT’S AMAZING !

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Mendoza Restaurant Profile: FARRAH

Tuesday, July 12th, 2011

 

RESTAURANT FARRAH

There is a new option in Mendoza for exquisite dishes and a beautiful atmosphere. The restaurant is a full family affair with 4 bothers and sisters as well as their mother, in on the act.The Chef, Belen, will often leave the kitchen to talk with you and make suggestions, explaining all of her creations. Her sister Pamela, the sommelier, can explain all the nuances to the wines and make suggestions as to what would pair best with your meal. You can also ask her about guided tastings and workshops as well including wine pairings, sensory tastings,  Behind the scenes Natalia, Emilio and Nidia make sure you are greeted warmly at the door and that everything operates in top form.

The theme cocina de autor, basically chef’s kitchen, is quite popular in Buenos Aires but has not yet quite hit Mendoza, however Farrah is one of the exceptions to this rule. Each room is designed around wine and has eccletic and charming accents, from the chandeliers to the fabrics and colors. The rooftop deck is perfect for relaxed dining under the stars and you can pick your bottle of wine or artisanal beer from their wine cellar…now I just have to wait until its a bit warmer here to indulge!

We had an amazing meal, tasting through many of their delectable dishes that included a tasting menu of different empanadas, a flatbread with green apples, sweetbreads and blue cheese, followed by incredible homemade pastas. You will not be disappointed at this cozy new spot located in the Quinta section of Mendoza.

Bon appetit!

 

Reservas 0261 4239981 -  153688574
Paso de los Andes 1006 esq. Julio A. Roca – Cdad – Mza

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The New Architectural Wine Tour in Mendoza

Monday, July 11th, 2011

 

 

BORMIDA AND YANZON

Bormida and Yanzon are the premier architects in Mendoza, creating iconic modern wineries, each with a distinctive personality and a work of art in its own right. They are also The Vines favored architect, having designed not only our Tasting Room, Vinoteca & Winebar in the Park Hyatt, The Vines Bodega, but also The Vines Resort & Spa which is scheduled to be open in 2012!!

The guide consists of 14 wineries you are able to tour the different wine regions of Maipu, Lujan de Cuyo and the Uco Valley in Mendoza, tasting the best the region has to offer.  As art and architecture often go hand in hand with wine, you are now able to satisfy all of our senses with beauty, food and wine, as most of these world class wineries offer in-house restaurants.

Click here to download the new Wine Architechture Guide from Bormida y Yanzon

So off you go, print your map, hire a car and hit the wine roads for a fun day of art, architecture and wine!

The bodegas included are:

1. Navarro Correas -This modern winery is located only 10 kilometers from downtown Mendoza and offers both warmth and the best of modern technology. The architecture is such that it is meant to accentuate the landscape and the foothills of the Andes that are close in proximity. Descend into their subterranean cellar that houses 5,500 barrels with impressive tasting rooms and reception.

2. Nieto Senetiner – Founded in 1888 when Italian immigrants established the first vineyards in Lujan de Cuyo. The winery was developed by different families that built it with the architecture that can be seen today. In 1969, the Nieto Senetiner family acquired the winery and implemented modern technology and improvements for making high end wines. They now produce still witness that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah as well as sparkling wines.

3. Vistalba – A descendant of one of Argentina’s most prominent winemaking families, Carlos Pulenta made his name as the president of the Salentein winery. In 2003, Pulenta ventured out on his own to create a cutting-edge winery that uses every technological advancement available to produce wines of exceptional quality.

4. La Bourgogne – One of the premier restaurants in Mendoza, La Bourgogne with famed chef Jean-Paul Bondoux, he creates menus utilizing fresh local ingredients for regionally authentic dishes in a laid back yet sophisticated atmosphere.

5. Dante Robino – Dante Robino was born in 1885 in Canelli, a small town in northwest Italy’s Piemonte Region. He immigrated to Argentina and in 1920 established the Dante Robino winery in Lujan de Cuyo. Now the Squassini family owns and operates this winery since 1982, combining technology and modern winemaking techniques with sustainable farming methods.

6. Norton – One of Argentina’s leading and most historic wineries, it was founded in 1895 by English engineer Edmund James Palmer Norton, who was building the railroad between Mendoza and Chile. In 1991 Michael Halstrick revamped the winery for modern growth and development and was awarded Best Wine Producer of the Year in 2004 by La Nación and in 2006 Wine Spectator named it as one of the top 20 wineries in the world.

7. Septima – In addition to an impressive view of the Andes, the Séptima winery’s original architecture — which showcases the Huarpe Indian “pirca” stone-laying technique — makes this Mendoza bodega a noteworthy stop.

8. Dolium – The word “dolium” is Latin for amphora, the distinctive bottles that the classical Greeks and Romans used to store wine. Like the Romans, who kept wines underground at a constant temperature throughout the year, Dolium is the first underground winery in Argentina to combine such ancient traditions with modern technology. Under the direction of Mario Giadorou, a mechanical engineer with a distinguished background in private industry before turning his attention to the production of fine wine in 1997, this high tech and state of art winery was established.

9. Pulenta Estate – Brother to Carlos Pulenta, Eduardo Pulenta has up’ed the anty with his cutting edge winery that eminates both casual elegance and high technology. The beautiful concrete construction can be seen on the informative tour and is followed by an impressive tasting. This is one of our favorite Mendoza producers- we’ve never met a Pulenta Estate wine that we didn’t like.

10. Atamisque – The Bodega Atamisque was founded by a french couple John and Chantal de Monceau on a historic farming estancia, building a winery on the property in honor of Chantals’ grandfather, who was a winemaker in Burgundy, France. TAking all of the elements of nature as seen in the architecture of the winery as well as in the wines, you can visit this elegant and high tech winery situated amongst natures most beautiful elements.

11. Salentein – Situated in the middle of 455 hectares of vineyards below the eastern slopes of the Andes, Salentein is a massive, concrete and steel harbinger of the future of Argentine wine. With annual production exceeding 1 million bottles, the winery is known for classical varietals, old vine preservation, and European production methods that yield world-class wines.

12. Killka – Killka was designed as a cultural space where the visitor can experience everything that is related to viticulture as well as enjoy an extensive collection of modern art from Argentina and Holland. This space unites wine and art in an architectural space uniquely created for this very experience.

13. Diamandes – In 2005, the Bonnie, proprietors of Château Malartic-Lagravière (Grand Cru Classé de Graves) and Château Gazin Rocquencourt (Pessac- Léognan) decided to broaden their horizons and now have 130 hectáreas with their first harvest in 2007.
The winery was designed by prestigious local architects Bormida and Yanzon and recently won best winery architecture for the contest “Best of Wine Tourism in 2011″ organized by Great Wine Capitals.

14. O’Fournier – Spanish company O Fournier built this temple to gravity-only winemaking in homage to its resident winemaker. It is worth the trip to Valle de Uco to see this marvel of architecture and technology and to taste award-winning Tempranillo blends.
The winery has a capacity of 600,000 litres in stainless steel, oak and cement housed some of the most unique architecture in the Mendoza province.

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