Try something new from Argentina! Bonarda could be the new up-and-coming red…

This thick-skinned “workhorse” varietal has only recently been surpassed by Malbec in terms of the number of plants in the ground. The history of Bonarda in Argentina includes enormous yields and gallons of mediocre jug table wine. Hearty and super-productive (Bonarda vines can produce three times as much as Malbec), Bonarda has long offered reliability to wineries looking to churn out large amounts of medium-quality blended juice. For years the grape has played a supporting role to its bigger, flashier cousin while quietly supplying dark fruit and structure to blends and, too, suffering years of ugly-stepchild-like neglect by winemakers and consumers alike. Luckily now all of that is changing.

Bonarda, your time has come.

The origins of this grape have inspired a significant amount of investigation and controversy over the years. Some say that Bonarda comes from grapes of the same name in northern Italy (Bonarda de Gattinara, Bonarda dell Oltrepo Pavese, etc). Turns out this is a bit of misinformation. While the Argentine vine shows strong similarities to three different Italian strains, once Argentina was able to partake in the great discoveries of DNA testing, it was found that the local Bonarda is most closely related to the French grape “Corbeau Noir”, the same grape known in California as “charbono”. But wait! To complicate matters further, Italy has its own Charbono grape, grown in the Piedmonte region in the north. Because a great majority of Argentines descend from Italian families that emigrated from northern Italy, and we know that those families brought with them plenty of vines, common sense indicates that it’s the Italian Charbono which we find in the vineyards today. Still, no one can say for sure, and thus the quest to discover Bonarda’s true roots continues.

A late-ripening grape, Bonarda needs plenty of sunlight thrives in likes hot, dry weather. It struts its stuff especially well in the regions north and east of Mendoza: La Rioja and San Juan, with the best expressions coming from San Rafael and Maipu. Because of its markedly spirited nature, Bonarda needs plenty of pruning, a good green harvest, and low yields to concentrate fruit and lots of sunshine to get the ripest, most sugar-saturated berries possible.

Argentine winemakers, possibly predicting an end to malbec-madness, are now devoting more time and energy to crafting Bonarda into something more exciting, a unique and sometimes powerful wine that merits attention. Indeed, all of the big players are busting out single-varietal bonarda (Trapiche, Alta Vista, Durigutti, Tapiz, Norton, the list goes on…), some even offering reserve, grand reserve or single-vineyard versions. The high-end bottles are fetching some impressive prices and wine ratings, especially for a varietal that is all but unheard of outside of the country.

After an hour of barrel tasting over 20 wines with a passionate and somewhat obsessive French enologist at a local winery, I found myself most impressed with their brand new batch of pitchy, spicy Bonarda. It had structure, balance, and ripe, luscious fruits. It was different and intriguing, with all of Malbec’s velvety sex-appeal plus an added element of rebellion. Other Bonarda that I’ve recently tasted have shown flavors ranging from blackberry, prune, and mint, to sandalwood, violet, and thyme. They have been cheerfully fruity or blackish and brooding but always with lively, agreeable acidity and a medium body. Empanadas have never had a closer friend.

Good news! You can find some of the best Bonardas here at Vines of Mendoza! Look for these bottles in our tasting room and wine shop:

2008 Las Perdices Reserva Bonarda    $29

A powerful, concentrated expression, this wine greets you with aromas of blueberry marmalade, mint and coffee.  Sweet on the attack and balanced on the palate, the wine opens and reveals new layers in the glass over time. Serious Bonarda!

2007 Durigutti Bonarda   $13

Beautifully perfumed with aromas of blackberry jam, spicebox, fresh herb and fig.  Luscious, round and juicy on the palate with mellow tannins.  Warm spices predominate and blend with blakcberry fruit and a hint of minerality.  Agreeable and gluggable.

Brillat Savarin said, “The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a new star.” I suppose the same sentiment can be applied to a new wine. Don’t worry, you can still love malbec, it’s not going anywhere, but you might want to make a little bit of space in your world for this mysterious, dark character, because it just may be Argentina’s next sippable superstar!

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